fuselage solid in place. I do all of mine with the fuselage sitting on the
table (90 * to the table) with the fus weighted down and bolts into the
table thru the front gear attach points. Not something everyone can do in
the confines of their shop, but as Ken points out you can block it outside
as well. I then use basement jack posts, that I welded the bottom plate to
and screwed to a 3' x 3' piece of 3/4" plywood. You then use the jack
screws, on the jack posts, to raise/lower the wings to get the dihedral
exact and clamp/drill the struts.
As for strut material and new ends, as many have pointed out you can
probably machine a new end and keep the existing struts by transfering the
holes and adjusting the "fork" length accordingly to get what you need.
Failing that, you can get the strut material from Clair Sceli at Clamar
Floats as when it became too much of an issue for me to get Clair a dozen
struts at a time from MAM he had his own die made to extrude the profile.
He's just up the road from you...
Wayne
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ken" <klehman@albedo.net>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Thursday, August 25, 2011 11:44 PM
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] RE: And the saga continues...Rebel #56 Build
I used the same fuselage supports that I use for removing and servicing
the gear. Concrete blocks and wood or jacks under the cage. Actually I
like to put a 3 foot long wooden 2x3 on each side of the fuselage
stretching between the cage and the bulkhead that the rear drag strut
attaches to. Then I jack on each of those with the jacks an inch or two
behind the cage. Tail sits on something as well. As noted, the fuselage
will move a lot if you just leave it sitting on the wheels.
IMO one should not expect better than 0.2 degree repeatable accuracy out
of any electronic level that I've ever seen but that is good enough. I
would only use one level though. You've heard the saying that a man with
two watches never knows what time it is... If there is any doubt,
reverse the level (end for end) and see if the readings agree. Exacting
carpenters like to do that to confirm a level's accuracy. Frankly though
I don't think the dihedral is at all critical other than the control
horn attachments at the wing root will flex more if the dihedral is
excessive. Left and right roughly matching makes it a touch easier to
fly wings level I suppose ;)
Ken
On 8/25/2011 3:59 PM, Bruce Rose wrote:Roland: You have now identified your problem. It would be very difficult
to
remove and attach the struts without some thing moving. I would remove
the
gear and put the fuselage back on the table. level the table , then the
fuselage. I would then put the previous struts back on and remove the
bolts
from one end. then set the wings at exactly 1 degree. Mark your fittings
through the previously drilled bolt holes and see what you have. It may
be
possible to save the struts and two of the end fittings.
Bruce
----- Original Message -----
From: "Roland Kriening"<kriening@rogers.com>
To:<rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Thursday, August 25, 2011 7:19 AM
Subject: RE: [rebel-builders] RE: And the saga continues...Rebel #56
Build
Main landing gear at front and sawhorse at back. Fuselage was within .1
degree of level, as measured off the front cage.
-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf Of
Bruce
Rose
Sent: Thursday, August 25, 2011 9:01 AM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] RE: And the saga continues...Rebel #56
Build
Roland: What was supporting the fuselage during the levelling and
measuring?
Bruce
----- Original Message -----
From: "Roland Kriening"<kriening@rogers.com>
To:<rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Wednesday, August 24, 2011 10:11 AM
Subject: [rebel-builders] RE: And the saga continues...Rebel #56 Build
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