It's interesting that the difference in error from one wing to the other was
1 deg. -- the same number desired for each wing's dihedral. Could be mere
coincidence, or could be a whopper clue to the process error...?
On the bright side, sounds like strut replacement prices have come waaay
down. Mine cost quite a bit more than that four years ago, and took 6 mos.
to show up. So... things are looking up! ;-)
Ron
On Wed, Aug 24, 2011 at 10:11 AM, Roland Kriening <kriening@rogers.com>wrote:
In short form here is what I did...from what I can remember. It was as per
the instructions.
1. wings on, supported at each end.
2. used digital level on the cage and came within .1 of true level without
adjusting the fuselage on the gear. As the 36" level has an error range of
+/- .1 degree I took this as my level point. Checked this a few times with
two different levels. So I set the level on the forward cage and re-set it
to 0. Now I was starting with the cage as my level point.
3. transferred the level to the top of the wing about five feet from the
root and on the main spar.
4. adjusted the end of the wing to achieve as close to 1 degree as I could
get.
5. measured hole distance as per plans and cut strut as per plans
6. installed the struts and blocks and marked as per the plans
I think I may have been OK up to this point, now is where the mistakes
probably happened.
7. removed struts and marked as per the plans, lined up block on outside of
strut and drilled single hole through end
8. marked and drilled remaining holes in block
9. lined up block on outside of strut again, pinned drilled hole and
drilled
out new holes
10. inserted block into strut and drilled holes all the way through
11. installed bolts and checked level still on top of the wing - still at
.9
12. removed support at end of wing and thought I had done well.
Went on to do the other side the same way. Once all bolts were in and
supports were removed I was surprised to see the first wing I did at 1.7
degrees and the second at 2.7 degrees. Double checked by taking my level
off
the forward cage (which was extremely close to true level anyway) and
setting the level in the exact spot I had it. I am most likely missing
something that should be very obvious, but my frustration level keeps me
from seeing it.
Ron's point about ensuring you have the correct angle on the blocks is so
very true. One of mine was off by a hair and translated into a 1/4 inch
variation at the other end.
Darryl will be sending me new parts $116 for the struts, and $85 for each
block. Expensive lesson, but critical parts.
Roland
R56
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