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[rebel-builders] Cable tensions - Was:control cable turnbuck

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Ted Waltman

[rebel-builders] Cable tensions - Was:control cable turnbuckles

Post by Ted Waltman » Sun Feb 19, 2012 8:35 pm

There are no recommendations for cable tension in the manual.

Ted

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf Of Jason
Beall
Sent: Sunday, January 16, 2011 5:15 PM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: [rebel-builders] Cable tensions - Was:control cable turnbuckles

Thanks all.

One other question: I can't find any reference to cable tensions in the
builders manual!?

Thanks, -Jason

--- On Sat, 1/15/11, Ron Shannon <rshannon@cruzcom.com> wrote:

[quote]From: Ron Shannon <rshannon@cruzcom.com>
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] control cable turnbuckles
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Date: Saturday, January 15, 2011, 6:36 PM
A couple suggestions:

First, this job is easier with two people. Start by setting
the pedals or
stick, as the case may be, where you want at the "at rest"
or mid-travel.
With the pedals, you generally want the main pedal tube
vertical, or perhaps
leaning aft just a smidge. Use some dowels and tubing
slipped into the
horizontal tubes to keep all pedals lined up together. Find
a way to fix
them in position, or have one guy keep them square to the
floor.

Mount the forward turnbuckle clevis in place, and set the
turnbuckle to
about 3-4 threads showing on each end. The AC-43 std. is
max. 3 threads
exposed, so that will give you some room to tighten them up
a smidge. Place
the thimble in the rear end of the turnbuckle. Pull the
cable through the
Nicopress and around the thimble and back through the
Nicopress until it's
nice and snug, and pinch the cable at the rear, narrow end
of the thimble.
Use a Sharpie to mark the cable at the top of the thimble,
i.e., forward
center of the turn around the thimble.

Then you can take the turnbuckle off the forward end and do
the crimping in
a more comfortable position, back by the seat position for
example, just by
realigning the mark to the top of the thimble. One guy will
hold the cable
tight _near_ the narrow end of the thimble, while the other
one handles the
crimp tool. The holder can help sight for perpendicularity
and fore and aft
position. Of course, you crimp the Nicpropress three times,
first in the
middle, then on the thimble side, then on the cable side.

Highly recommended to get some extra thimbles and cable and
practice a
couple of those first. Of course, do the rudder ends first,
and lock the
rudder in a centered position. (See http://n254mr.com/node/1375) And be
prepared to do one or more of these over, and... That's
airplane building.

I set my springs last, and used little steel tangs to set
the tension
exactly where I want it. See http://n254mr.com/node/1391

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