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[rebel-builders] RE: [rebel-builders tail spring

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Tim Hickey

[rebel-builders] RE: [rebel-builders tail spring

Post by Tim Hickey » Sun Feb 19, 2012 8:05 pm

Hello, Karl:

For my, and others, information for future use, can you give us some further
information on the springs you are using? Size, source, etc.?

Tim Hickey
Rebel builder at times.


----- Original Message -----
From: "Khipp" <khipp@99victor.com>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Cc: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Friday, September 24, 2010 6:02 PM
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] RE: [rebel-builders fiberglass tail wheel leaf
spring]

The aluminum spring on my early model rebel had absolutely zero bounce to
it. I modified a couple steel leaf springs and after a little trial and
error, I have a 1000% improvement. Between the forgiving bungees and the
new tailwheel spring, I am confident I can land on really crappy terrain
with no airframe damage.

Karl

On Sep 24, 2010, at 9:54, Bob Patterson <bobp@prosumers.ca> wrote:
Hi Marc !

The composite tailspring was standard for many years.
I really like them - have used them on all 4 of our Rebels.
You might have to cut a bit off the back end to get the
tailwheel angle right - some of them were made too long ...

Prefer them to the aluminum chunk - which can work IF you
grind/mill it to taper to half thickness at back end - or the
steel springs, which just snap at some point. The fiberglass
has a benign failure mode - it just delaminates. This is easy
to see in a pre-flight, and can be field-repaired by drilling a
hole in the center, and bolting a plate on top & bottom,
to get you home.... (flew one that way for over a month,
waiting to find a new one..)

Of course, others have different preferences, and YMMV ! ;-)

--

......bobp
bobp@prosumers.ca
bobp@pattersys.com
http://www.Pattersys.com
http://www.amway.ca/BobPatterson


Any views expressed in this message are those of the individual sender
and do not necessarily reflect the views of any other entities or
persons.
Any action taken as a result of the contents of this email is totally the
responsibility of the reader.


On September 24, 2010 04:41:54 am Marc & Janine wrote:
Hello Ron,

I've also a composite tailspring.
Thicker part for the fuselage side and slightly thinner towards the
tailwheel.
Synthetic shell with glass core.
Not installed yet. But when pictures are needed give me your mail adress
I'll send you some.
Is it a standard Murphy part? Can anyone tell?

Marc
PH-REB

-----Oorspronkelijk bericht-----
Van: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] Namens Curtis
Langholz
Verzonden: vrijdag 24 september 2010 3:21
Aan: REBEL BUILDERS
Onderwerp: RE: [rebel-builders] RE: [rebel-builders fiberglass tail
wheel
leaf spring]


Ron,
My kit has a composite tail spring with it. I have not put it to use
yet
though.
Curtis
175R
spring]
fiberglass. I made landing gear out of fiberglass on a previous project
and
it worked out well.

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Khipp

[rebel-builders] RE: [rebel-builders tail spring

Post by Khipp » Sun Feb 19, 2012 8:05 pm

Northern tool sells a trailer spring for about $19. There are two leaves.I cut the main leaf to replicate the existing aluminum leaf and cut the secondary leaf to fit between the mounting blocks and the tailwheel. Shims need to be added in the mount assembly to make up the difference in the thickness of the aluminum leaf and the steel leaf. You need to use a press to put more bend in the leafs to more closely match the old leaf. I added a little extra bend for more ground clearance. Make sure the bends are made so the tailwheel rotating surface is parallel to the ground fore and aft. Make the bends before cutting the leafs to length as it is easier to fixture them in the press.

Karl

On Sep 24, 2010, at 18:22, "Tim Hickey" <tjhickey@iowatelecom.net> wrote:
Hello, Karl:

For my, and others, information for future use, can you give us some further
information on the springs you are using? Size, source, etc.?

Tim Hickey
Rebel builder at times.


----- Original Message -----
From: "Khipp" <khipp@99victor.com>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Cc: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Friday, September 24, 2010 6:02 PM
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] RE: [rebel-builders fiberglass tail wheel leaf
spring]

The aluminum spring on my early model rebel had absolutely zero bounce to
it. I modified a couple steel leaf springs and after a little trial and
error, I have a 1000% improvement. Between the forgiving bungees and the
new tailwheel spring, I am confident I can land on really crappy terrain
with no airframe damage.

Karl

On Sep 24, 2010, at 9:54, Bob Patterson <bobp@prosumers.ca> wrote:
Hi Marc !

The composite tailspring was standard for many years.
I really like them - have used them on all 4 of our Rebels.
You might have to cut a bit off the back end to get the
tailwheel angle right - some of them were made too long ...

Prefer them to the aluminum chunk - which can work IF you
grind/mill it to taper to half thickness at back end - or the
steel springs, which just snap at some point. The fiberglass
has a benign failure mode - it just delaminates. This is easy
to see in a pre-flight, and can be field-repaired by drilling a
hole in the center, and bolting a plate on top & bottom,
to get you home.... (flew one that way for over a month,
waiting to find a new one..)

Of course, others have different preferences, and YMMV ! ;-)

--

......bobp
bobp@prosumers.ca
bobp@pattersys.com
http://www.Pattersys.com
http://www.amway.ca/BobPatterson


Any views expressed in this message are those of the individual sender
and do not necessarily reflect the views of any other entities or
persons.
Any action taken as a result of the contents of this email is totally the
responsibility of the reader.


On September 24, 2010 04:41:54 am Marc & Janine wrote:
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Ken

[rebel-builders] RE: [rebel-builders tail spring

Post by Ken » Sun Feb 19, 2012 8:05 pm

I'd suggest using 3 leafs if they are the 1/4" x 1 3/4" leafs unless you
have a light airplane. Two leaves were as soft as the fibreglass spring
but I consistently find that two leaves sag a bit after a few hundred
landings. That's when the wheel shimmy starts on my machine. Clamping
them firmly together will increase the torsional rigidity which also
reduces shimmy.
Ken

Khipp wrote:
Northern tool sells a trailer spring for about $19. There are two
leaves.I cut the main leaf to replicate the existing aluminum leaf
and cut the secondary leaf to fit between the mounting blocks and the
tailwheel. Shims need to be added in the mount assembly to make up
the difference in the thickness of the aluminum leaf and the steel
leaf. You need to use a press to put more bend in the leafs to more
closely match the old leaf. I added a little extra bend for more
ground clearance. Make sure the bends are made so the tailwheel
rotating surface is parallel to the ground fore and aft. Make the
bends before cutting the leafs to length as it is easier to fixture
them in the press.

Karl

On Sep 24, 2010, at 18:22, "Tim Hickey" <tjhickey@iowatelecom.net>
wrote:
Hello, Karl:

For my, and others, information for future use, can you give us
some further information on the springs you are using? Size,
source, etc.?

Tim Hickey Rebel builder at times.


----- Original Message ----- From: "Khipp" <khipp@99victor.com> To:
<rebel-builders@dcsol.com> Cc: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com> Sent:
Friday, September 24, 2010 6:02 PM Subject: Re: [rebel-builders]
RE: [rebel-builders fiberglass tail wheel leaf spring]

The aluminum spring on my early model rebel had absolutely zero
bounce to it. I modified a couple steel leaf springs and after a
little trial and error, I have a 1000% improvement. Between the
forgiving bungees and the new tailwheel spring, I am confident I
can land on really crappy terrain with no airframe damage.

Karl

On Sep 24, 2010, at 9:54, Bob Patterson <bobp@prosumers.ca>
wrote:

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