Your following message has been delivered to the 167 members of
the list murphy-rebel@dcsol.com at 20:23:39 on 23 Nov 2000.
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Drew (and ALL),
There has been no problems with the front bearings (that I know of) as they
should not be under water long enough to fill up with water (under normal
usage), unless you are putting them down to drive up ramps, etc. Even then
they are also sealed with rubber seals on both sides to help hold the grease
in, and to keep the water out. The front wheels are also easy to work on at
a dock, or on the ground etc, and you can pop the grease seals out with an
O-ring pick and repack them if ever necessary (or just replace with new ones
for about $7 a bearing). The main gear is a bit more of a chore to work on
than the nose wheels, so it is worth the extra steps to insure some
longevity of the bearings (and to save about 6 hours of work to do the
bearing change, the need for some kind of lift, etc). If you had of been one
of the unlucky soles that have the original swing arms (like I just replaced
on FOKM's amphibs), instead of the new 2 piece FL-219's they ship now, it
could be a full day job just to change one flat tire as you had to drop the
entire gear mechanism to get the axle off of the swing arms!
AS for getting ripped off, I really Doubt MAM intentionally did so. Probably
just an error ordering in the wheels from Cleveland and if I was you I would
contact Murphy and question why you didn't get the better CP bearings like
others have received. It can't hurt to ask for what you have paid for!
One other important thing for everyone with a float kit to check. On some of
the "early" kits MAM shipped 4 or 6 ply rated tires. These WILL NOT support
the aircraft properly. Make sure you received 8 ply rated 11 - 4 x 5.00
tires. Usually Cheng-Shin brand. They hold up very well if you keep the tire
pressure between 65 and 70 pounds. When you need replacements, they are
available at most Goodyear outlets for about $30 Cdn per tire and ALWAYS buy
a new tube to go with them!
One other suggestion to all of you, once you get your Rebel flying on
amphibs. If the aircraft is going to sit for any period of time in excess of
a couple weeks ( & especially for winter strorage), lift the aircraft and
put blocks under the step area to keep the tires off the ground. Retract the
gear slightly to take all the pressure out of the system. This way you tires
will be round when you go to use the airplane again and not D shaped and
full of sidewall cracks like the, almost new, set I had to throw away off of
FOKM.
Regards,
Wayne G. O'Shea
www.irishfield.on.ca
----- Original Message -----
From: "Drew and Jan" <drewjan@execulink.com>
To: "Murphy Rebel Builders List" <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Thursday, November 23, 2000 7:37 PM
Subject: Re: Re: Amphib Wheel Bearings]
withWell I'm feeling a little ripped off now I've got plain steel bearings
yourkit #82 that I received aug.18 I guess thats what you get when you buy
whichfloats on sale. By the way my front wheel bearings are chinese 1628RS
addI assume are plain steel as well. How well are nosewheel bearings standing
up? Wayne do you drill the front axles too?
Drew Dalgleish
At 12:53 PM 11/22/00 -0500, you wrote:Hello ALL,
Just in case anyone is <actually> taking my suggestion to drill the main
axles (on the Amphib floats) for grease fittings, I though I had better
offthis BEFORE I received any C4 or "ticking" packages in the mail!
There is an aluminum spacer that goes under the axle nut and washer. This
spacer must be turned down from the 1 3/4" size that allows it to seal
clearancethe dust felt, to about 1 5/8" O.D. If you don't put this 1/16th"
andbetween this spacer and the dust felt you will blow the felts, washers
boltretainer rings out of the wheels when you fill the wheel with grease! I
reminded myself of this small modification, this morning, the HARD WAY!
Easy to turn them down if you have access to a lathe and a 1" diameter
(orand nut to mount the spacers on. Chuck in the lathe and turn them down.
Tips on the initial wheel grease filling are to use a tongue depressor
thesimilar) and fill the wheel cavity around the perimeter with grease up to
the bearing cones. Then hand pack the taper bearings and install them on
findbrake side of the wheel. Dust felt washer, dust felt and another washer,
then the retainer ring. Install the axle and then the bearing, dust felts
etc on the nut side. Install the spacer, washer, axle nut and tighten by
hand while rotating the assembly. Then snug up the nut and cotter pin in
place. Then slowly pump grease through the nipple WHILE rotating the
assembly, until some grease starts to ozz out at the nut side. You will
cleanedthat grease will continue to ozz out for awhile, even after you have
fillit off once or twice. If it doesn't ozz after cleaning, then the wheel is
not full of grease and has air pockets in it. Give it a few more pumps of
grease and once again rotate it a few turns to help the grease ozz by the
retainer nut washer. It only takes about 2 grease cartridges to fully
greaseBOTH wheels, although I would buy a total of 6 so you have the same
"Lake"for that DEDICATED grease gun to cover you for a few years down the
and(as you had better not be on the road!).
Yes, I obviously <FINALLY> got my Chrome Plated 08125-CP taper bearings
a08231-CP cones on Monday after a FOUR and a HALF MONTH wait. Ordered them
July the 5th. Sure glad it wasn't a customers Rebel that had come in for
thinkquick bearing change in the Summer, as we have now received just about 3
feet of snow since Friday (and it's still coming down) UGGGH! I don't
toC-FOKM is going to get the new motor broken in this year, so now I have
$20,000figure out how to corrosion proof all that nice bare steel on it's
wheels.ZERO'd engine!
Can anyone (Curt maybe) that is building a set of MAM amphibs right now
confirm what bearings they received with their kit, in the Clevland
TheIf they are Chrome plated, the bearing with have a CP after the 08125.
inCP can be nice letters, done like like the part number, or just engraved
cost)someones hand writting. If there is no CP, then you have steel bearings.
FWIW, the steel bearings are only about $10Cdn and available the same day
you walk into the bearing supply house. The Chrome Plated ones (my OEM
Theyare $70 bearing and $30 cone. That's $200 per wheel for the bearings.
tooktook 4 1/2 months to get this time, the last set I bought (3 years ago)
with3 weeks to get. Thank god I ordered two sets this time, so I am ready
Mythe next set when (if) they are needed!
It all depends what you time is worth guys and gals! Would you rather be
flying it, or lying under it changing steel wheel bearings twice a year?
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