which I have on a timer. In cold weather 0 far. I let it heat about 6 hours.
In warm weather I give it about 3. I use the heater year around and it
always starts like a warm engine. It also does not kick back against the
prop. Dave rover@triax.com
-----Original Message-----
From: Geert Frank <storchpilot@mediaone.net>
To: murphy archives <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Date: Friday, November 17, 2000 8:07 AM
Subject: pedals & subaru engines
thatHi BilNewkirk, before I go into Subaru engine question, once more about
closeKinden rudder pedal mod. I clearly recall that placement of rudder pedals
was sort of left to builder, reference distance from the firewall. I am of
course talking about the early builders and their manual with some
shortcomings. ( I also have no idea what would happen if you moved that
firewall 3 inches back. You either wound up with the firewall much too
setto the pedals or the damn pedals right underneath your feet!). Anyway, I
fewmy pedals back a respectful distance from the firewall, but after I started
taxiing around many months later, because the way the brake pedal swivelled
at the end of the rudderpedal travel, my foot kept bumping into the
firewall! Before I had a chance to apply any useful braking. As I said a
hairsplitting,times before, this gave me a Lockheed L-1011 turning radius. What Keith's
mod in essence did, was to swivel the top of the pedals aft so they are now
effective even at full rudderpedal. It sounds like a bunch of
havebut the proof was surely in the pudding the time I installed those modified
pedals, instant success. It was also somewhat assuring that an experienced
builder like Keith had obviously run into the same problem as I had.
Now Bill's Subaru inquiry. It remains a difficult question to answer. One
first and main point, underlined by the few replies from folks with a lot
more time on their engines than I have: there is absolutely no loss in
reliability. Period.
I utilize a Warp Drive 3 bladed prop( 72" tapered blades s/n T 6782). I
toa stock 2.2 Legacy engine, puts out 5250 engine RPM on take-off, I use 4900
RPM for cruise. I started out with a VW Jetta radiator and had myself 9
months of cooling headaches. On the advice of a fellow builder I switched
well.a Ron Davis race car radiator ( $ 350) and that ended all cooling problems.
I utilize a Ross Aero drive, I was very apprehensive about any reduction
gear, but that was totally unfounded. In other words the thing does just
fine. I am sure there are other reduction set-ups that will do just as
1.I am utilizing an aircraft type oilcooler($ 290), no problem. The prop by
the way cost me $ 935 in 1996. A few things I am still trying to correct:
itI lost one of the many advantages of using an automotive conversion, when
wiringis cold, the engine does not start readily. I am sure it is in my set-up,
after all the car starts right away. I have no idea why this is so. 2. 130
HP is all this 2.2 engine delivers, I would go for at least a 2.5 engine, I
could sure use a little more oompf. Those trees are pretty high at the end
of my strip. It must also be noted, that re-sale may be somewhat effected.
Most people prefer to sit behind a Lycoming no matter how old. This brings
me to the final choice. Where to buy the Subaru?Junkyard with all the
toand computer or "professional converter"? In the past I have praised
Eggenfellner and still would as far as his technical savvy on the complete
firewall forward is concerned. Now I have to add a warning: do NOT send him
a deposit. Put the money for the whole set-up in escrow with his bank and
only after he delivers you the complete set-up will you release the money
questionhim. I hope this guy can get his financial act together he is one heck of a
technician. Apart from all this you still have to pay these professionals a
significant amount of money, for everything firewall forward. So where is
the advantage? If I had known then what I know now, I would have been able
to do everything firewall forward including the prop for around $ 8000 to $
9000, that is about half what you will have to spend with Eggenfellner,
Stratus, Dave B. or Crossflow. This do-it-yourself-figure is going to be
somewhat higher now, primarily because the reduction units are now more
costly. Maybe as high as $ 11,000 and you will have to have the savvy to
mount the engine correctly and figure out the computer, reduce the intake
manifold's size,etc. So maybe you are better off buying a ready to go
set-up. I really do not know. That is why I said "it is a difficult
---------*to answer". To confuse matters even more, here comes that 6cyl Subaru
engine, they are now offering at the dealer. Only fifty pounds heavier and
only a few inches longer, but 200 HP! Decisions, decisions! Best regards,
Geert.
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