have a 2" spacer. As you say temps are a problem in the climb
cheers
Hans
640E
On Thu, Oct 1, 2009 at 8:13 AM, WALTER KLATT <Walter.Klatt@shaw.ca> wrote:
--If you search back in the archives, there has been lots of discussion in
the past about improving cooling with the fibreglass cowl. You need to open
the bottom exit, and if that is not enough, then open the inlets a bit as
well.
On my new 360 install, I managed to achieve good cooling without having to
change the inlets. But on my previous one, I ended up opening the inlets
before I had good cooling.
Float flying in the mountains in hot weather where you had to do long
climbs was the big problem.
Also, having at least a 2.5 inch prop spacer helps, as then you can pull
the cowl forward enough to allow more air past those front cylinders. In my
previous install, I had only a 1.75 spacer which I think was part of the
problem with the small inlets.
Walter
----- Original Message -----
From: Hans Kuck <hansk3d@gmail.com>
Date: Thursday, October 1, 2009 7:38 am
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Float Deck rail tape
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
To all Elite Builders,
I have just recently finished my Elite 640E and have flown the
first 25
hours. Engine temps are within limits but are to high for my
liking. I am
interested in building the 4 Piece Piper Style Cowling for the Elite.
Are there any plans, instructions, material list, good advise
etc out there.
What else can one do to reduce eng. temps with the regular
"speed cowl" form
MAM?
any help would be appreciated
cheers
Hans
On Wed, Sep 30, 2009 at 2:55 PM, Wayne G. O'Shea
<oifa@irishfield.on.ca>wrote:from theI don't follow the "tape" Garry. Nothing I remember being there.
wayne
----- Original Message -----
From: <wright.garry30@gmail.com>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Wednesday, September 30, 2009 5:18 PM
Subject: [rebel-builders] Float Deck rail tape
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