0 320 engine mounts / cowling / 1/4 Turn Fasteners

David Ricker · Post by **David Ricker** » Fri Feb 17, 2012 8:33 pm

Wayne

I thought that would be how you should do it and it sounds like it makes sense but why
the camlocks rather than the large head DZUS fastener (their standard or supersonic
styles)? Is it a matter of $ or fit or other reasons? The DZUS come to mind since I was
looking to use them on something for my day job and they seem straight forward and less
complex than the camlock with built in spring etc.

Dave R.

Wayne G. O'Shea wrote:

Dave and All,

Howard wanted Camlocks on his cowling (in place of the hinge) so what I did
was install (c/s rivet and filler) a .040 x 2 inch wide strip to the bottom
half of the cowling sides (and nose area sides), leaving about 1 inch
sticking up for the overlap of the top half of the cowling. The camlock
receptacles were installed on the "exposed" portion of the strip to mate up
with the camlocks that go through the top half of the fiberglass cowling. We
bought the retainer rings for the camlocks, but found that they cannot be
used at the nose (behind the spinner), or most of the way down the sides,
because the cowling will not spread enough to let the male camlock out of
the female receptacle. I guess some of them could be installed with the
retainer rings, but Howard was to install them after painting and I don't
know what he ever did with the rings. As it is now (because not all the
camlocks are the same length or colour) we have to take them out and stick
them into a piece of styrofoam in the order they are removed so they don't
get mixed up. Styrofoam is really good for this because if you stick the
camlocks into it good and deep, they <should> still be there after you have
borrowed a boat to go get your fasteners as they are floating down the lake
after being blown off the float deck!!!!!!

P.S. If you are going to use camlocks I suggest using phillips heads. Howard
bought slotted ones for his and it never fails that the screwdriver slips at
least once putting it on or off, to add another scratch to the paint job!

Blue skies,
Wayne G. O'Shea
www.irishfield.on.ca

----- Original Message -----
From: "David Ricker" <ricker@dbis.ns.ca>
To: " (Murphy Rebel Builders List)" <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Friday, November 03, 2000 8:15 PM
Subject: Re: 0 320 engine mounts / cowling

Wayne, group

All this discussion on wires & cowlings has me curious about doing it
differently as
Wayne has referred to, presumably with 1/4 turn fasteners. What are the
options and what
are the issues when using 1/4 turn fasteners (like reinforcing the cowl
for the "point
loading" of the fasteners etc).

Wayne, you mention camlocks, by the way you speak they are not the captive
sort like the
DZUS I have seen in some applications, why not? I presume the camlocks
you are speaking
of are the spring loaded 1/4 turns built into a sort of barrel.

Dave R.

Wayne G. O'Shea wrote:

GEE, THANKS BRIAN! Is this beat up Wayne week or what?

Bob's P's cowling <CAN> be removed in less than 10 minutes unless he is
a
really slow screw'er. (although that <CAN> sometimes be a good thing!)
Bob's
cowling is quicker to remove than Howard's (with his requested camlocks
to
keep in order when removed on each side, instead of the piano wire) and
I
can take Howard's off (top and bottom) in less than 10 minutes. I think
maybe Bob was just having one of those "bad days" and got carried away
while
typing his "tirade"!

The speed cowling is <DEFINITELY> not as easy to do quick maintenance
checks
though, especially over the water, as no matter how you attach the cowl
there will be screws (or clips, or camlocks) to drop into the lake
(unless
as Bob says, you cut some large doors in the fiberglass cowl halves
instead,
besides the OPTIONAL oil access door I installed on his). The bottom,
firewall area, screws are the worst and the ones that are most likely to
go
"plunk" in the lake! Howard slings a tarp between the floats to work at
the
dock! Maybe that is why he didn't bother pulling his cowling to find
that
his carburetor was falling apart!!!!!! Personally, I will <NEVER, NEVER,
NEVER> install another Speed Cowling on a Rebel, unless specifically
requested by the customer, as I don't have any cheese left for any more
whine!

Regards,
Wayne G. O'Shea
www.irishfield.on.ca

----- Original Message -----
From: "rebelair" <rebelair@idirect.com>
To: "Murphy Rebel Builders List" <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Friday, November 03, 2000 11:27 AM
Subject: RE: 0 320 engine mounts / cowling

installation.
I
either.
minutes
as
the
The
but
on
and,
that with
done
point
visibility
change
the
standard
it
fit
know
the
the
has
a
upset.

-----------------------------orig.---------------------------------------
decide ease
The
worth

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Wayne G. O'Shea · Post by **Wayne G. O'Shea** » Fri Feb 17, 2012 8:33 pm

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Your following message has been delivered to the 161 members of
the list murphy-rebel@dcsol.com at 18:03:41 on 5 Nov 2000.
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Dave, no reason that you couldn't use Dzus fasteners. I think one is just as
expensive as the other though, so no advantages there! The Camlocks we used
on Howards's (2700 c/sunk series) are nice and small (about 5/16ths overall
dia) and sit flush with the cowling face when installed. Of course this
makes a screw driver necessary for removal, instead of the dime to turn the
Dzus ones. The Dzus style may not go "ping" into the lake, when the screw
driver slips just after unlock though either!!!! The one main disadvantage
of Dzus fasteners is that (my experience with them anyway is) the springs
they clip onto break, or loses it's strength over time. This requires the
removal of rivets, a new spring and re-rivet, compared to the easy purchase
of a new Camlock stud if the spring goes on them.

Just to throw in an Advertising plug:

Anyone out there that <is> deciding to go with Camlocks, I don't have any
Male Stud portions, but I do have over 2500 of the female 212-12N
receptacles for a $1 Cdn each (that's about half price!), plus Postage &
Handling. I also have a very large supply of the Dzus style fasteners
(grommet and non-grommet styles), but unfortunately most are in the larger
Military sizes for C-47's etc. being FJ6 and FJ7's (most of the sizes that
Aircraft Spruce shows as N/A in their catalogue! :-):-):-)). If you have
figured out what size and model number you need for the thickness etc send
me e-mail and I will see if I have the matching Dzus fastener. I have a few
of the retainer springs also, but not a great variety of "heights"

Regards,
Wayne G. O'Shea
www.irishfield.on.ca

----- Original Message -----
From: "David Ricker" <ricker@dbis.ns.ca>
To: " (Murphy Rebel Builders List)" <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Sunday, November 05, 2000 3:03 PM
Subject: Re: 0 320 engine mounts / cowling / 1/4 Turn Fasteners

Wayne

I thought that would be how you should do it and it sounds like it makes

sense but why

the camlocks rather than the large head DZUS fastener (their standard or

supersonic

styles)? Is it a matter of $ or fit or other reasons? The DZUS come to

mind since I was

looking to use them on something for my day job and they seem straight

forward and less

complex than the camlock with built in spring etc.

Dave R.

Wayne G. O'Shea wrote:

Dave and All,

Howard wanted Camlocks on his cowling (in place of the hinge) so what I

did

was install (c/s rivet and filler) a .040 x 2 inch wide strip to the

bottom

half of the cowling sides (and nose area sides), leaving about 1 inch
sticking up for the overlap of the top half of the cowling. The camlock
receptacles were installed on the "exposed" portion of the strip to mate

up

with the camlocks that go through the top half of the fiberglass

cowling. We

bought the retainer rings for the camlocks, but found that they cannot

be

used at the nose (behind the spinner), or most of the way down the

sides,

because the cowling will not spread enough to let the male camlock out

of

the female receptacle. I guess some of them could be installed with the
retainer rings, but Howard was to install them after painting and I

don't

know what he ever did with the rings. As it is now (because not all the
camlocks are the same length or colour) we have to take them out and

stick

them into a piece of styrofoam in the order they are removed so they

don't

get mixed up. Styrofoam is really good for this because if you stick the
camlocks into it good and deep, they <should> still be there after you

have

borrowed a boat to go get your fasteners as they are floating down the

lake

after being blown off the float deck!!!!!!

P.S. If you are going to use camlocks I suggest using phillips heads.

Howard

bought slotted ones for his and it never fails that the screwdriver

slips at

least once putting it on or off, to add another scratch to the paint

job!

Blue skies,
Wayne G. O'Shea
www.irishfield.on.ca

----- Original Message -----
From: "David Ricker" <ricker@dbis.ns.ca>
To: " (Murphy Rebel Builders List)" <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Friday, November 03, 2000 8:15 PM
Subject: Re: 0 320 engine mounts / cowling

Wayne, group

All this discussion on wires & cowlings has me curious about doing it
differently as
Wayne has referred to, presumably with 1/4 turn fasteners. What are

the

options and what
are the issues when using 1/4 turn fasteners (like reinforcing the

cowl

for the "point
loading" of the fasteners etc).

Wayne, you mention camlocks, by the way you speak they are not the

captive

sort like the
DZUS I have seen in some applications, why not? I presume the

camlocks

you are speaking
of are the spring loaded 1/4 turns built into a sort of barrel.

Dave R.

Wayne G. O'Shea wrote:

is

a

thing!)

Bob's

camlocks

to

and

I

think

away

while

maintenance

checks

cowl

(unless
instead,

bottom,

likely to

go

at

the
that

NEVER,

more

installation.
either.
minutes

technique

as

removing

the
The

out,

but
and,

right

done

this

visibility
change

be

the
standard

and

it

don't

know

for

the

departed

the

aircraft

has

be

upset.

don't

^%$^%$%^

Australia

!!

-----------------------------orig.---------------------------------------

to

heard

cowling.

The

second

it

worth

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The Murphy Rebel Builders List is for the discussion
between builders and owners of Murphy Rebel aircraft.
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*-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------*

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