Couple misc. questions

[Mike Davis]

Received: from home.com
(cr427828-a.poco1.bc.wave.home.com [24.112.112.153])
by mail.rdc1.bc.wave.home.com (Netscape Messaging Server 3.5)
with ESMTP id AAA2FE0 for <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>;
Mon, 13 Jul 1998 15:41:38 -0700
Message-ID: <35AA8CAF.D6FD61A3@home.com>
Date: Mon, 13 Jul 1998 15:39:43 -0700
From: David Qualley <dqualley@home.com>
Reply-To: dqualley@home.com
Organization: Pacific Coast ent Ltd.
X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.02 [en]C-AtHome0402 (Win95; U)
MIME-Version: 1.0
To: Murphy Mailing List <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Subject: Couple misc. questions
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

1.
I am about to start riveting up my first wing. Where and how has
everyone else run the wiring through the wing to the tips for strobes,
Nav. lights, and Landing lights.

Where in the root rib is the best place to bring the wires through to be
brought into the cockpit later? Should I drill through the Nose rib
and use a grommet, or just run them through the opening between the rib
and front spar?

Is there anything special about the "Aircraft wire" that I see in all
the parts catalogs, or would it be OK to use a good quality wire from
the hardware store?

Should the Neg. side of fixtures be grounded to the airframe, and have a
return wire? Or just a return wire?

2.
I fitted my flap to the wing and discovered that the bolts holding the
Rear attach point to the rear spar stick into the flap. The solution
would be to have the nuts inside the fuel tank rather than outside. I
saw the Murphy Super Rebel in Arlington yesterday, and this is how they
did it. My question is can I/Should I still use the fiber nut. Will
the fuel eat the fiber part? Or should I go to some other type of nut?

Being that they are inside the tank, inspection will be immpossible.. So
I want to know that they are going to stay attached..

3.
The manual says to "Drill 4 extra holes" into the bracket that supports
the end of the Aileron Torque Tube. It never mentions what the holes
are for.. Are they meant to be drilled and riveted through the main
spar?

Thanks,
Dave

[Mike Davis]

Received: from sps1 (1Cust247.tnt4.sea1.da.uu.net [208.253.68.247])
by smtp2.mailsrvcs.net with ESMTP id AAA01499
for <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>; Tue, 14 Jul 1998 00:08:01 -0500 (CDT)
Message-Id: <199807140508.AAA01499@smtp2.mailsrvcs.net>
Reply-To: <paxhia@gte.net>
From: "Alan & Deborah Paxhia" <paxhia@gte.net>
To: "Murphy Rebel" <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Subject: Re: Couple misc. questions
Date: Mon, 13 Jul 1998 22:21:20 -0700
X-MSMail-Priority: Normal
X-Priority: 3
X-Mailer: Microsoft Internet Mail 4.70.1161
MIME-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Dave, I'm running a ground buss wire and wires for landing lights, strobes
and position lights to the wing tip. The airframe does not make a good
ground unless you bond the separate pieces of structure together. The
route for the wires is through grommets in the nose ribs then down the
strut. This way there is the least amount of wire overhead and routed down
the door post. I am staying with aircraft wire, use wire that is not
affected by oil and moisture. Over time you may treat the insides of the
structure with a anticorrosion product like ACF50 or Corrosion X. These are
petroleum based products and will attack some hardware store type wire.
Thanks for the tip on the hinge bolts. I noted the bolts at Arlington but
passed it off as they had just put them in backwards.
Al Paxhia (SR026)
.




-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------

[Mike Davis]

Received: from home.com ([24.112.112.153]) by ha1.rdc1.bc.wave.home.com
(Post.Office MTA v3.5 release 217 ID# 1-1U40000L0S0V35)
with ESMTP id com for <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>;
Tue, 14 Jul 1998 12:25:57 -0700
Message-ID: <35ABB050.3968DDE8@home.com>
Date: Tue, 14 Jul 1998 12:24:00 -0700
From: David Qualley <dqualley@home.com>
Reply-To: dqualley@home.com
Organization: Pacific Coast ent Ltd.
X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.02 [en]C-AtHome0402 (Win95; U)
MIME-Version: 1.0
To: " (Murphy Rebel)" <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Subject: Re: Couple misc. questions
References: <199807140508.AAA01499@smtp2.mailsrvcs.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Alan & Deborah Paxhia wrote:

Thanks for the tip on the hinge bolts. I noted the bolts at Arlington but
passed it off as they had just put them in backwards.
Al Paxhia (SR026)

It's not the hinge bolts. They are fine nut side out. It's the ones
that attach the two plates that form the rear attach point on the rear
spar. I don't have the manual handy so I can't tell you what the part
#'s are offhand..

Dave
057SR

[Mike Davis]

Received: from sps1 (1Cust14.tnt4.sea1.da.uu.net [208.253.68.14])
by smtp1.mailsrvcs.net with ESMTP id WAA06642
for <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>; Tue, 14 Jul 1998 22:10:41 -0500 (CDT)
Message-Id: <199807150310.WAA06642@smtp1.mailsrvcs.net>
Reply-To: <paxhia@gte.net>
From: "Alan & Deborah Paxhia" <paxhia@gte.net>
To: "Murphy Rebel" <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Subject: Re: Couple misc. questions
Date: Tue, 14 Jul 1998 20:24:02 -0700
X-MSMail-Priority: Normal
X-Priority: 3
X-Mailer: Microsoft Internet Mail 4.70.1161
MIME-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Dave, Now I understand the problem. Since the wing is still open, and can
get to tank area the solution I like best is to install nutplates for the 4
bolts to the side of the hinge. The nutplate that I'm using is NAS1473A3.
It has a dome head and is sealed on the back. The concern I have with
nutplates is they loose their locking ability after 3 or 4 in and outs, so
safety wire should be used through the bolt heads.
Al (SR026)
.




-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------

[Mike Davis]

Received: from [204.191.149.171] (helo=ts33-12.tor.istar.ca)
by mail2.toronto.istar.net with smtp (Exim 1.92 #2)
for murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
id 0ywzgc-0005g7-00; Thu, 16 Jul 1998 21:51:51 -0400
X-Sender: crs1188@inforamp.net
X-Mailer: Windows Eudora Light Version 1.5.2
Mime-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com> (Murphy Rebel)
From: Bob Patterson <bob.patterson@canrem.com>
Subject: Re: Couple misc. questions
Message-Id: <E0ywzgc-0005g7-00@mail2.toronto.istar.net>
Date: Thu, 16 Jul 1998 21:51:51 -0400


Light wiring:

Most of the Rebel builders up here have been running 5/16" or
3/8" clear plastic tubing (flexible) through grommets through the ribs in
front of the fuel tank. The tubing is held in place by a few tie-wraps.
Originally, we used rigid PVC water piping, but found it hard to handle,
so switched to the urethane stuff.

The reasons for using the tubing are:

- it makes it easy to add wiring later (you just run a string
through it for now, if you aren't adding lights until later)

- it stops any possibility of the wiring shaking around, chafing
through, and causing short circuits

- it makes it easy to replace the wires later, if they ever
deteriorate

FWIW, most of the builders now run the wiring down a tube
INSIDE the wing strut. This brings the wiring out at the bottom, where
it is MUCH easier to run up behind the instrument panel. They also
run the PITOT LINES down this way. It is very awkward to get the lines
down from the wing root, if you run them all the way in the wing - you
can't drill through the "cage" extrusions.

The bottom end (and sometimes the top, too) of the wiring in the
strut has a quick connect - automotive trailer light connectors are common.

"Aircraft wire" has Teflon insulation - it is more expensive than
automotive wire, BUT :

Automotive wire has a plastic insulation that gives off
CYANIDE GAS (and a LOT of smoke) when it burns - this is NOT something
you want in the cockpit !!!

A ground wire is always a good idea - the airframe parts are not
always a good connection, unless you add grounding straps (a pain !). Also,
if you are using the airframe, and there IS a bad connection, there MAY
be sparks at the bad contact (wing attach bolts, etc. ... )!!
Not pretty !!

LIGHTS:

Most builders are using the Whelen combination tip lights -
they have a strobe, a coloured nav. light at the front, and a clear nav.
light at the back. This eliminates the need for a white light on the tail,
and all the wiring associated with it.

Some people now prefer the Aeroflash units - they are similar
to the Whelen, except thay are cheaper, AND have individual power units
at the wing tip, instead of the one central unit in the fuselage that
Whelen uses. The advantage is that onlt 12 volts goes out to the tip
with the separate units - the Whelens send the thousands of volts all
the way out, and this CAN give you a lot of radio noise !

FWIW, I used the Whelen nav & stobe combos, without the tail
light, and added the separate tail light, with strobe, on the rudder.
This is more work, and slightly more $$$, but it gives considerably
increased visibility, because of the extra strobe on the tail.

If you are shopping for Whelens, Oshkosh or S 'n F are
THE places to buy - most dealers offer a 40 % (!!!) discount at OSH !!
Hope to see you there - at the Murphy Builders dinner on Saturday night.
Free dinner if you FLY your Murphy in !!

Good luck !! ...bobp

---------------------------------orig.------------------------------------
At 03:39 PM 7/13/98 -0700, you wrote:

1.
I am about to start riveting up my first wing. Where and how has
everyone else run the wiring through the wing to the tips for strobes,
Nav. lights, and Landing lights.

Where in the root rib is the best place to bring the wires through to be
brought into the cockpit later? Should I drill through the Nose rib
and use a grommet, or just run them through the opening between the rib
and front spar?

Is there anything special about the "Aircraft wire" that I see in all
the parts catalogs, or would it be OK to use a good quality wire from
the hardware store?

Should the Neg. side of fixtures be grounded to the airframe, and have a
return wire? Or just a return wire?

2.
I fitted my flap to the wing and discovered that the bolts holding the
Rear attach point to the rear spar stick into the flap. The solution
would be to have the nuts inside the fuel tank rather than outside. I
saw the Murphy Super Rebel in Arlington yesterday, and this is how they
did it. My question is can I/Should I still use the fiber nut. Will
the fuel eat the fiber part? Or should I go to some other type of nut?

Being that they are inside the tank, inspection will be immpossible.. So
I want to know that they are going to stay attached..

3.
The manual says to "Drill 4 extra holes" into the bracket that supports
the end of the Aileron Torque Tube. It never mentions what the holes
are for.. Are they meant to be drilled and riveted through the main
spar?

Thanks,
Dave