Yes shims are used although it can be difficult to add them to a
completed wing unless he has installed nutplates. Make sure the bolts
are long enough. Some bending of the upper wing skin is also possible.
In my case I cut back the top skin a bit with a router, maybe about 1/4"
in some places. However once I rigged the controls I also found that the
flaperon does not move up as far as the manual lead me to to believe
especially if you decide to only use 6* of reflex for cruising. Swapping
the parts (left outboard section for right inboard) may also help the fit.
If the flaperons are not covered you can also dimple and countersink the
upper forward rivets so that the rivet heads don't protrude and reduce
the clearance. About 3 rivets per rib.
Ken
schaumr@dcsol.com wrote:
Hello,
This is my first message to the group as a fully fledged Rebel builder! My
recent purchase of rebel kit 786 from a builder in New Jersey has me very
excited, even though the only thing I've done so far is stare at the project in
my garage! Control surfaces and wings done 100%, fuselage about 40%.
Has Ontario mods too!
I'm slowly taking inventory of all the things that I still have questions on.
One of these is that I was told by the owner that shims (or spacers) between
the aileron hinge brackets and the rear spar are a valid "fix" to prevent aileron
contact with the wing. An archived post suggested that this might be due to
too acute an angle between the spar and the flange the wing skin sits on.
That post goes on to suggest that 3/16" is the widest spacer allowed per
MAM. I've sent a similar query to Murphy, but I thought I'd ask all of you as
well?
Rob
Rebel #786
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