My old manual has you make a wooden form to hammer and shrink the end of
the corner wraps at the float attach points. I believe a wooden hammer
works best for that as a steel hammer tends to thin and stretch the
material.
If you are referring to the flat fuselage sides, mine seem to be OK
after rivetting however I do have a small flange in a number of places
on the skins to make sure the edge stays tight. Just a couple of degrees
of bend on the last 1/4" of the panel edges. My favorite tool for that
is a 3" round disk with two nylon wheels on it that is run along the
edge. Mine came from Avery tools. You can make your own with replacement
nylon bath tub door wheels if you like. There is another style of
flanger that has the wheels on the end of a 3/4" round rod but I find
that type to be difficult to control.
Ken
David L. Tuck wrote:
As the rear tail cone comes forward it is going outward on an angle and the
cabin section seems to be straight ? so when these two sections meet they
don't lie flat. this is at the rear seaplane attach point.
I have checked all the bulkheads and they are all correct. They just don't
fit together well ? there is a gap and it seams like it want's to ripple at
this point when I cleco the panels together.
Anyone who can help ! it would be so appreciated.
Thank you
Dave T / rebel 009 here in rainy snowy Michigan.
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