Root Rib Flanges

[Mike Davis]

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Hello!

Questions concerning the Fuselage Root Rib (Fus 27) flanges for R280: I was
told to flatten the top flange of the root ribs (step 208 p13-91 of
7/27/94).
I did that. Now the note of step 256 says to push up a bulkhead tightly
against this top flange. How can this be done if the top flange of the root
rib is in the vertical plane? And why did Murphy make the fuselage root rib
with a flange at the top?

Thanks,
Dan
R280





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[Mike Davis]

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From: "Charles Skorupa" <chucks@gte.net>
To: "Murphy Rebel" <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Subject: Re: Root Rib Flanges
Date: Sun, 14 Jun 1998 10:02:27 -0700
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Hi Dan,
When you "flattened" the top flange, was the FUS-27 upper flange still
perpendicular to the web (right), or are the web and the flange now in the
same plane (wrong)?

- Chuck Skorupa -
-----Original Message-----
From: MMoreho699@aol.com <MMoreho699@aol.com>
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>; murtech@murphyair.com
<murtech@murphyair.com>
Date: Saturday, June 13, 1998 10:39 PM
Subject: Root Rib Flanges

Hello!

Questions concerning the Fuselage Root Rib (Fus 27) flanges for R280: I was
told to flatten the top flange of the root ribs (step 208 p13-91 of

7/27/94).

I did that. Now the note of step 256 says to push up a bulkhead tightly
against this top flange. How can this be done if the top flange of the root
rib is in the vertical plane? And why did Murphy make the fuselage root rib
with a flange at the top?

Thanks,
Dan
R280

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[Mike Davis]

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Chuck, Duane, and others:

(Sigh) :-( Looks like I have some rebending of the flange to do. I did
hammer
it flat just like MAM said. So much for getting their 'clarification'. I'll
bend it back perpendicular to the main area of the rib.

So what they meant was to flatten out the rib itself, not the flange? I
think
we did something similar when making the tank for the gauge and outlet
fittings.

Thanks for your input!

Dan
R280



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[Mike Davis]

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From: "Charles Skorupa" <chucks@gte.net>
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Subject: Re: Root Rib Flanges
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Dan,
Unfortunately, I nuked your response to the "flattening" issue and your
frustration with Murphy, but it occurred to me that you still may have a
questionable interpretation of the instructions. I don't think your advice
from Murphy was wrong, but the English language may have got in the way a
little. Your response and proposed action implied flattening of the web of
FUS-27. I think if you go back to Murphy's instructions and read it
carefully, it says "Straighten the top flange....etc. This can be done with
crimping pliers... etc. The rib when finished should lie flat when placed
on a table" I don't see anywhere where it says to flatten anything. It
does say the rib should lie flat when placed on a table. This is because if
you merely bent the FUS-27 flanges 90 degrees to the web, since the flanges
are on a curved contour, something's gotta give. It's one of the challenges
of working with metal. In this case, the web of the FUS-27 would take on a
bowed shape. Try doing the same thing with a paper model and you'll see the
same phenomena if you tried to bend paper flanges up along a curved arc
drawn on the paper. Since paper isn't to stretchable, you gotta cut slits in
it to make the curve. The beauty of metal is that you can relieve the
stresses by stretching or shrinking the flange that is 90 degrees to the
curve, depending on whether it curves to the inside in a smile shape or
curves to the outside in a frown shape. By using crimping pliers (AKA
fluting pliers, etc.), or a stretcher-shrinker on the flange, it is possible
to have the flanges be 90 degrees to the web across a curved shape, without
any warpage to the web. How do you know when you have "fluted" or "shrunk"
the flanges enough? You lay the FUS-27 on a flat surface and if it still
has any bow to it induced by the bent flanges, you adjust your fluting
accordingly until it lays flat. I hope you didn't hammer the web flat since
the contours that are stamped into the web add strength to the shape of the
web. You might verify this with Murphy, but that's how I read the
instructions and it seems consistent with what makes the structure strong
and the common sense eyeball of what the root rib's function is. Not to
worry, though. I think you will find one of the advantages of 6061 aluminum
is that it will tolerate a fair amount of cold working should you have to
re-form some surfaces. Be careful though, since it can be overdone. Its
sort of like finding the edge of a cliff in the dark by counting your paces
as you walk toward the edge until you feel like you are in thin air, then
backing up one pace. Don't let any cracks form in the metal!

Good Luck,
- Chuck Skorupa -
-----Original Message-----
From: MMoreho699@aol.com <MMoreho699@aol.com>
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>; murtech@murphyair.com
<murtech@murphyair.com>
Date: Saturday, June 13, 1998 10:39 PM
Subject: Root Rib Flanges

Hello!

Questions concerning the Fuselage Root Rib (Fus 27) flanges for R280: I was
told to flatten the top flange of the root ribs (step 208 p13-91 of

7/27/94).

I did that. Now the note of step 256 says to push up a bulkhead tightly
against this top flange. How can this be done if the top flange of the root
rib is in the vertical plane? And why did Murphy make the fuselage root rib
with a flange at the top?

Thanks,
Dan
R280

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