suggested a short piece of angle be attached on the inner face of the rib
with a single rivet into the spar tube. This would stop the rotating action
at the single rivet that now holds the rib to the spar tube. Rivets have
more than sufficient grip length to continue using RV1410's and 4412's as
spelled out in the manual and doublers should always be one skin thickness
heavier than the skin in general practice. Ie .020 skin = .025 doubler. The
elevator skin is .016..but I would do the doublers in this case at .025
minimum as you are trying to add some rigidity. First time build with the
angle on the inside would probably be good enough with .020 if that's all
you have. If doing a field fix then I would suggest .025 or even .032.....
as you are depending on it to stop the rotation at the single rib rivet.
Wayne
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jones, Michael" <Michael.Jones@snclavalin.com>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Tuesday, February 07, 2006 3:56 PM
Subject: RE: rebel upgrades
tobrian
a. brace would be best on other side of rib as you mention, if elevator
already built this fix is better than taking elevator apart, another fix
would be to have the bracket with a y shape so it rives to tube in two new
locations and then the rib, this would really stop the problem, more work
usedo this but if your building now i think its best solution
b. use same rivets rv1410, i think
c. doubler same thickness .020 i think
mike#007
-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of
Brian Breathnach
Sent: Monday, February 06, 2006 3:36 PM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: rebel upgrades
Hi Ken and Wayne,
Went to the archives and pulled up the elevator mods which brouight a few
questions to mind.
(A) The archive photo of the fabricated angle bracket flange you mentioned
in your email below Ken, seems to overlay the flange of the rib that comes
with the kit rather than on the other side of the rib? Or am I reading the
photo wrong? Would that particular mod/configuration be as good as you
suggested to keep the rib from rotating Ken?
(B) Would the pie shaped doublers, and fabricated flange, result in the
shovelof rivets different from those the manual specifies be used to attach the
elevator skin to the spar and ribs??
(C) Pie shaped doubler same thickness as the elevator skin?
Many thanx for any feedback you care to offer
Brian Breathnach R779
----- Original Message -----
From: "Wayne G. O'Shea" <oifa@irishfield.on.ca>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Sunday, February 05, 2006 9:31 AM
Subject: Re: rebel upgrades
Thanks Ken! Exactly...saves me some typing so I can now get out and
keywords9+ inches of wet snow and get the plow back on the truck. Winters back
with
a vengence!
Wayne
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ken" <klehman@albedo.net>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Sunday, February 05, 2006 12:24 PM
Subject: Re: rebel upgrades
Hi Alan
This is in the archives a few times (although I don't know what
skinto search for) but concerns the outboard ends of the elevators only as
they have the counterweights in the tips. Those weights bouncing up and
down tend to cause the outboard rib to rotate a bit around the single
rivet that attaches it to the spar. The suggested solution is an angle
bracket on the other side of the rib so that the rib has two flanges
against the rib and two rivets and therefore can't rotate.
In addition two pie shaped skin doublers (top and bottom) under the
someat the outboard end of the spar is suggested. They would pick up a few
of the rivets into both the spar and the rib. It is this area where
mentionfixes includedskin cracks have appeared but I think the real root cause should
probably be fixed with the bracket mentioned above.
Ken
alan.thompson@dcsol.com wrote:
should haveelevators right now
modsin the archives. Is
in more detail?
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