al to the 4th rib and each stringer on the top and give a good proseal coat to this area
when i coated all the seams and bottom skin rivets. Later I then removed the aluminum
bits just before coating everything for the top skin install. The only leaks I had in
either skin were through the centres of a few rivets (my kit being older didn't have the
tank rivets so I used the standard rivet) A little dab of proseal into each leaking rivet
with a slight vacuum on the tank did the trick.
As Ken suggests I cleco'd the wing skins in place while doing the tank skins to keep
things aligned.
klehman@albedo.net wrote:
--Bob
Congratulations on the inspection.
FWIW I used the method of installing the tank skins and sealing the tanks before
installing the wing skins. I ended up with an alignment problem when I installed
the top wing skins. Eveything aligned along the main spar but the tank skin to
wing skin was a problem. If I did this again I would cleco the wing skin into
position before installing the tank skin and then remove the wing skin after the
tank skin was prosealed and riveted into place. I haven't checked for washout
yet but my wing skin is now has some "waves" in it behind the tank skin.
Also it was very satisfying to go into the tank through my one access hole and
filet the inside of all the joints and rivets. There were a lot of potential
leak spots (especially at the stringer exits) prior to doing that. I'm guessing
that that is why the SR wing has access holes near the inboard and out board
tank ribs.
Ken
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Wray Thompson ...Rebel 306 ...home page http://webhome.idirect.com/~wrayt/
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