Moose flap main ribs

[mike.davis]

Well I finally got off my butt and got out in the shop and tidied up. I got
the elevator back on the table to finish up only to notice that I had made a
mistake while working on it last. The two center ribs (EL-450) get cut down,
and the flanges are supposed to be bent to overlap in the middle, but I cut
them about an inch long, instead of the 4 inches or so they should have been.
Now I need to order 2 new ribs.

Anyway, I shelved the elevator again and started laying out the flaps. I've
got a question about trimming the main ribs. The MAM says mark and trim the
main flap ribs to 12 3/8 in. as show in figure 7.2.4. The figure shows the
rib pushed into the spar so that you are measuring from the face of the spar
to the tail end of the rib. I'm assuming that I cut the excess off the tail
end since there is a rivet flange on the spar end. The question I've got is
that the figure also shows a measurement from the face of the spar back 1
5/8". My guess would be that I'm supposed to trim the side flanges back to
this point so that they don't interfere with the spar flange, but there's no
mention of doing this, only the dimension shown in the figure.

Mike
195SR



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[mike.davis]

Well I answered my own question by sitting down and reading through the
instructions again... 8 steps further along it explains that you are to drill
a #40 hole at the 1 5/8" mark, this is the starting point for putting the skin
on. I'm glad I stopped rather than assuming they needed to be cut here!

Mike
195SR



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[David Ricker]

Mike

If the Flap/Ails are like the Elite you should NOT cut first & then try the fit.
We found that the cut was probably not short enough (better that way though!) and
once you forced the works into the skin you were a bit snug. BTW, even when we
cut the ribs shorter we still had bulges where the ends of the ribs spread the
skin. I think that all comes from the fact that the ribs (AIL-23) are used in the
fabric covered Flap/Ail of the Rebel (Rebel Guys??) so they have to be the uncut
length to get the correct F/A chord length.

When you cut them shorter for the Elite/SR/M, the end that gets squeezed into the
apex of the skin is now wider than the profile of the skin because the narrow end
has been trimmed back. Does any of this babble make sense??

Anyhow, we re-profiled (narrowed) the AIL-23s a bit at the end to make them fit in
the skin better and they look a lot better now.

Hope this is helpful!

Dave
elite583.cjb.net


mike.davis@dcsol.com wrote:

Well I answered my own question by sitting down and reading through the
instructions again... 8 steps further along it explains that you are to drill
a #40 hole at the 1 5/8" mark, this is the starting point for putting the skin
on. I'm glad I stopped rather than assuming they needed to be cut here!

Mike
195SR

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--
David A. Ricker
Fall River, Nova Scotia
Canada






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[Mike Davis]

Thanks Dave, I wondered if they might not be this way because they were the
same ones used on the Rebel. I hope the recommended length doesn't come out
short on my Moose because I've already cut them all to 12 3/8". I'm
building both flaps at once on opposite sides of the table... makes the
whole mirror image thing real easy. ;-) Got one frame riveted today, and
the other one just needs to be deburred and cleaned and it's ready to rivet.

Mike
195SR

----- Original Message -----
From: "David Ricker" <ricker@inherentsys.ca>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Saturday, January 22, 2005 8:00 PM
Subject: Re: Moose flap main ribs

Mike

If the Flap/Ails are like the Elite you should NOT cut first & then try
the fit.
We found that the cut was probably not short enough (better that way
though!) and
once you forced the works into the skin you were a bit snug. BTW, even
when we
cut the ribs shorter we still had bulges where the ends of the ribs spread
the
skin. I think that all comes from the fact that the ribs (AIL-23) are
used in the
fabric covered Flap/Ail of the Rebel (Rebel Guys??) so they have to be the
uncut
length to get the correct F/A chord length.

When you cut them shorter for the Elite/SR/M, the end that gets squeezed
into the
apex of the skin is now wider than the profile of the skin because the
narrow end
has been trimmed back. Does any of this babble make sense??

Anyhow, we re-profiled (narrowed) the AIL-23s a bit at the end to make
them fit in
the skin better and they look a lot better now.

Hope this is helpful!

Dave
elite583.cjb.net


mike.davis@dcsol.com wrote:

Well I answered my own question by sitting down and reading through the
instructions again... 8 steps further along it explains that you are to
drill
a #40 hole at the 1 5/8" mark, this is the starting point for putting the
skin
on. I'm glad I stopped rather than assuming they needed to be cut here!

Mike
195SR

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--
David A. Ricker
Fall River, Nova Scotia
Canada






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[pollock]

Mike

I just finished the flaps and the length of the main flap ribs should be
longer!!! After trimming to 12 3/8 the last hole in the skin was too close
to the edge TRIM LONGER AND DRY FIT IT you can always trim more.I should
have trimed 12 1/2.
----- Original Message -----
Bill
Moose 244
From: <mike.davis@dcsol.com>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Saturday, January 22, 2005 10:40 PM
Subject: Moose flap main ribs

Well I finally got off my butt and got out in the shop and tidied up. I
got
the elevator back on the table to finish up only to notice that I had made
a
mistake while working on it last. The two center ribs (EL-450) get cut
down,
and the flanges are supposed to be bent to overlap in the middle, but I
cut
them about an inch long, instead of the 4 inches or so they should have
been.
Now I need to order 2 new ribs.

Anyway, I shelved the elevator again and started laying out the flaps.
I've
got a question about trimming the main ribs. The MAM says mark and trim
the
main flap ribs to 12 3/8 in. as show in figure 7.2.4. The figure shows
the
rib pushed into the spar so that you are measuring from the face of the
spar
to the tail end of the rib. I'm assuming that I cut the excess off the
tail
end since there is a rivet flange on the spar end. The question I've got
is
that the figure also shows a measurement from the face of the spar back 1
5/8". My guess would be that I'm supposed to trim the side flanges back
to
this point so that they don't interfere with the spar flange, but there's
no
mention of doing this, only the dimension shown in the figure.

Mike
195SR



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[Mike Davis]

Thanks Bill, hopefully I'll be alright, once my frame was riveted together
they came out to 12 7/16. When I measured them I laid the spar flat on the
table, placed the rib in place, then pressed down against the table to seat
the rib tightly. This actually pushed the rib down a little farther than
they ended up once riveted in place.

Mike
195SR

----- Original Message -----

Mike

I just finished the flaps and the length of the main flap ribs should be
longer!!! After trimming to 12 3/8 the last hole in the skin was too close
to the edge TRIM LONGER AND DRY FIT IT you can always trim more.I should
have trimed 12 1/2.

Bill
Moose 244

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