I uploaded a picture of my cracked / broken heater control exhaust
shroud to the files list under Area 111, S/M Engines. Control unit
needs an additional brace support to prevent future vibration cracks.
Ted
Moose 142
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Cracked exhaust heater shroud
-
Scott Aldrich
Cracked exhaust heater shroud
I just uploaded two pictures of my exhaust. Moose area 111 Engine. It is
different than yours Ted.
The heater control box has reinforcements that are not on yours, could be
the difference between different YAK exhausts, mine is supposed to be YAK
52. The outlet pipe hits the engine mount tube though. I can fiddle with
the exhaust and just make it miss but I suspect with the shaking it will hit
and cause problems. Any evidence yours was rubbing the engine mount? I am
going to just cut the last inch and a half off and re-weld at a different
angle.
The lower right joint has a "special" clamp that has an edge that goes over
the lips that stick out from each exhaust piece. Why they are not all like
this I do not know. Looking at my pictures of the old MAM demonstrator it
did not have this at all. Others I have seen have this special clamp on the
lower left side (mine will not go there it is too wide, either there are
different size clamps or the ones on the left have a big gap under the clamp
you can not see).
I could see making stainless clips that hook into those lips on each joint
that then bolt together pulling both halves together. Just L shaped with a
hook on one end and then hole in the other, shorter leg that the bolt would
go through. Or for simple & lighter just hooks that you pull together with
safety wire.
My exhaust would be on except I had two duplicate tubes so I am missing two
pieces. A lot of head scratching before I figured it out...
-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf Of Ted
Waltman
Sent: Tuesday, July 20, 2004 2:47 PM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Cracked exhaust heater shroud
I uploaded a picture of my cracked / broken heater control exhaust
shroud to the files list under Area 111, S/M Engines. Control unit
needs an additional brace support to prevent future vibration cracks.
Ted
Moose 142
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different than yours Ted.
The heater control box has reinforcements that are not on yours, could be
the difference between different YAK exhausts, mine is supposed to be YAK
52. The outlet pipe hits the engine mount tube though. I can fiddle with
the exhaust and just make it miss but I suspect with the shaking it will hit
and cause problems. Any evidence yours was rubbing the engine mount? I am
going to just cut the last inch and a half off and re-weld at a different
angle.
The lower right joint has a "special" clamp that has an edge that goes over
the lips that stick out from each exhaust piece. Why they are not all like
this I do not know. Looking at my pictures of the old MAM demonstrator it
did not have this at all. Others I have seen have this special clamp on the
lower left side (mine will not go there it is too wide, either there are
different size clamps or the ones on the left have a big gap under the clamp
you can not see).
I could see making stainless clips that hook into those lips on each joint
that then bolt together pulling both halves together. Just L shaped with a
hook on one end and then hole in the other, shorter leg that the bolt would
go through. Or for simple & lighter just hooks that you pull together with
safety wire.
My exhaust would be on except I had two duplicate tubes so I am missing two
pieces. A lot of head scratching before I figured it out...
-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf Of Ted
Waltman
Sent: Tuesday, July 20, 2004 2:47 PM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Cracked exhaust heater shroud
I uploaded a picture of my cracked / broken heater control exhaust
shroud to the files list under Area 111, S/M Engines. Control unit
needs an additional brace support to prevent future vibration cracks.
Ted
Moose 142
-----------------------------------------------------
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username "rebel" password "builder"
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-----------------------------------------------------
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-
Scott Aldrich
Cracked exhaust heater shroud
Small update on the heater shroud. The whole valve mechanism is welded to a
separate plate that is strapped over the heat muff, not welded to the heat
muff like some. I found I could make a very slight adjustment with the
straps and now I miss my engine mount by about 3/8 inch.
Scott
Moose 174
-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf Of Scott
Aldrich
Sent: Saturday, July 31, 2004 8:30 PM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: RE: Cracked exhaust heater shroud
I just uploaded two pictures of my exhaust. Moose area 111 Engine. It is
different than yours Ted.
The heater control box has reinforcements that are not on yours, could be
the difference between different YAK exhausts, mine is supposed to be YAK
52. The outlet pipe hits the engine mount tube though. I can fiddle with
the exhaust and just make it miss but I suspect with the shaking it will hit
and cause problems. Any evidence yours was rubbing the engine mount? I am
going to just cut the last inch and a half off and re-weld at a different
angle.
The lower right joint has a "special" clamp that has an edge that goes over
the lips that stick out from each exhaust piece. Why they are not all like
this I do not know. Looking at my pictures of the old MAM demonstrator it
did not have this at all. Others I have seen have this special clamp on the
lower left side (mine will not go there it is too wide, either there are
different size clamps or the ones on the left have a big gap under the clamp
you can not see).
I could see making stainless clips that hook into those lips on each joint
that then bolt together pulling both halves together. Just L shaped with a
hook on one end and then hole in the other, shorter leg that the bolt would
go through. Or for simple & lighter just hooks that you pull together with
safety wire.
My exhaust would be on except I had two duplicate tubes so I am missing two
pieces. A lot of head scratching before I figured it out...
-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf Of Ted
Waltman
Sent: Tuesday, July 20, 2004 2:47 PM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Cracked exhaust heater shroud
I uploaded a picture of my cracked / broken heater control exhaust
shroud to the files list under Area 111, S/M Engines. Control unit
needs an additional brace support to prevent future vibration cracks.
Ted
Moose 142
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-----------------------------------------------------------------
separate plate that is strapped over the heat muff, not welded to the heat
muff like some. I found I could make a very slight adjustment with the
straps and now I miss my engine mount by about 3/8 inch.
Scott
Moose 174
-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf Of Scott
Aldrich
Sent: Saturday, July 31, 2004 8:30 PM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: RE: Cracked exhaust heater shroud
I just uploaded two pictures of my exhaust. Moose area 111 Engine. It is
different than yours Ted.
The heater control box has reinforcements that are not on yours, could be
the difference between different YAK exhausts, mine is supposed to be YAK
52. The outlet pipe hits the engine mount tube though. I can fiddle with
the exhaust and just make it miss but I suspect with the shaking it will hit
and cause problems. Any evidence yours was rubbing the engine mount? I am
going to just cut the last inch and a half off and re-weld at a different
angle.
The lower right joint has a "special" clamp that has an edge that goes over
the lips that stick out from each exhaust piece. Why they are not all like
this I do not know. Looking at my pictures of the old MAM demonstrator it
did not have this at all. Others I have seen have this special clamp on the
lower left side (mine will not go there it is too wide, either there are
different size clamps or the ones on the left have a big gap under the clamp
you can not see).
I could see making stainless clips that hook into those lips on each joint
that then bolt together pulling both halves together. Just L shaped with a
hook on one end and then hole in the other, shorter leg that the bolt would
go through. Or for simple & lighter just hooks that you pull together with
safety wire.
My exhaust would be on except I had two duplicate tubes so I am missing two
pieces. A lot of head scratching before I figured it out...
-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf Of Ted
Waltman
Sent: Tuesday, July 20, 2004 2:47 PM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Cracked exhaust heater shroud
I uploaded a picture of my cracked / broken heater control exhaust
shroud to the files list under Area 111, S/M Engines. Control unit
needs an additional brace support to prevent future vibration cracks.
Ted
Moose 142
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-
Ted Waltman
Cracked exhaust heater shroud
My exhaust heater control box was not rubbing on the engine mount. Must
have been a poor weld to start with. Got it rewelded and flew to Iowa
and on to Oshkosh.
In Iowa I did some work for a couple of days on my plane. Found ANOTHER
cracked exhaust assembly; cracked in the same place as the first one I
found--right next to the cylinder exhaust port. I spot welded stainless
screws above/below each shroud joint and safety wired them together (in
addition to the existing clamp). I'll upload pictures later.
Ted
-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf Of
Scott Aldrich
Sent: Saturday, July 31, 2004 8:30 PM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: RE: Cracked exhaust heater shroud
I just uploaded two pictures of my exhaust. Moose area 111 Engine. It
is different than yours Ted.
The heater control box has reinforcements that are not on yours, could
be the difference between different YAK exhausts, mine is supposed to be
YAK 52. The outlet pipe hits the engine mount tube though. I can
fiddle with the exhaust and just make it miss but I suspect with the
shaking it will hit and cause problems. Any evidence yours was rubbing
the engine mount? I am going to just cut the last inch and a half off
and re-weld at a different angle.
The lower right joint has a "special" clamp that has an edge that goes
over the lips that stick out from each exhaust piece. Why they are not
all like this I do not know. Looking at my pictures of the old MAM
demonstrator it did not have this at all. Others I have seen have this
special clamp on the lower left side (mine will not go there it is too
wide, either there are different size clamps or the ones on the left
have a big gap under the clamp you can not see).
I could see making stainless clips that hook into those lips on each
joint that then bolt together pulling both halves together. Just L
shaped with a hook on one end and then hole in the other, shorter leg
that the bolt would go through. Or for simple & lighter just hooks that
you pull together with safety wire.
My exhaust would be on except I had two duplicate tubes so I am missing
two pieces. A lot of head scratching before I figured it out...
-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf Of
Ted Waltman
Sent: Tuesday, July 20, 2004 2:47 PM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Cracked exhaust heater shroud
I uploaded a picture of my cracked / broken heater control exhaust
shroud to the files list under Area 111, S/M Engines. Control unit
needs an additional brace support to prevent future vibration cracks.
Ted
Moose 142
-----------------------------------------------------
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-----------------------------------------------------
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have been a poor weld to start with. Got it rewelded and flew to Iowa
and on to Oshkosh.
In Iowa I did some work for a couple of days on my plane. Found ANOTHER
cracked exhaust assembly; cracked in the same place as the first one I
found--right next to the cylinder exhaust port. I spot welded stainless
screws above/below each shroud joint and safety wired them together (in
addition to the existing clamp). I'll upload pictures later.
Ted
-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf Of
Scott Aldrich
Sent: Saturday, July 31, 2004 8:30 PM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: RE: Cracked exhaust heater shroud
I just uploaded two pictures of my exhaust. Moose area 111 Engine. It
is different than yours Ted.
The heater control box has reinforcements that are not on yours, could
be the difference between different YAK exhausts, mine is supposed to be
YAK 52. The outlet pipe hits the engine mount tube though. I can
fiddle with the exhaust and just make it miss but I suspect with the
shaking it will hit and cause problems. Any evidence yours was rubbing
the engine mount? I am going to just cut the last inch and a half off
and re-weld at a different angle.
The lower right joint has a "special" clamp that has an edge that goes
over the lips that stick out from each exhaust piece. Why they are not
all like this I do not know. Looking at my pictures of the old MAM
demonstrator it did not have this at all. Others I have seen have this
special clamp on the lower left side (mine will not go there it is too
wide, either there are different size clamps or the ones on the left
have a big gap under the clamp you can not see).
I could see making stainless clips that hook into those lips on each
joint that then bolt together pulling both halves together. Just L
shaped with a hook on one end and then hole in the other, shorter leg
that the bolt would go through. Or for simple & lighter just hooks that
you pull together with safety wire.
My exhaust would be on except I had two duplicate tubes so I am missing
two pieces. A lot of head scratching before I figured it out...
-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf Of
Ted Waltman
Sent: Tuesday, July 20, 2004 2:47 PM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Cracked exhaust heater shroud
I uploaded a picture of my cracked / broken heater control exhaust
shroud to the files list under Area 111, S/M Engines. Control unit
needs an additional brace support to prevent future vibration cracks.
Ted
Moose 142
-----------------------------------------------------
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username "rebel" password "builder"
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List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------
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-----------------------------------------------------
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