Moose - Air system leak discussion from YAK list

[Scott Aldrich]

Ted, the following is off the YAK list. First two points wouldn't apply to
most Moose as they don't usually have the snot valve or the associated line
between them.

Scott
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Bob, I can make a guess... but I will submit that it is a very educated one
and I will give you about a 95% certainty factor!

There are three usual places for a leak... one is the line itself... the one
with the coil in it. However, if this cracks, you usually will have a total
loss of air pressure and it will NOT be doing what you describe. It will
just fail to provide any air at all, so it is probably NOT a cracked line.

Next, the snot valve..... VALVE..... might be leaking. This is not very
common if you are closing it by hand and not using a remote control cable.
So that is not at the top of my list either.

Lastly.. this: (and this is the most likely!) On the bottom of the
compressor is a fitting called: A BANJO FITTING. This is a deal that allows
the female end to be rotated so that a perfect alignment can be achieved to
the solid line with the coil in it that leads over to the snot valve. THIS
PUPPY is what develops leaks ALL the time!

It has been my experience that there is only one way to tighten this thing
properly, and that is to take it completely apart and put it back together
again one step at a time. Be advised... this thing has compression washers
in it made of aluminum. You need the proper washers.... and it helps to
keep a spare set laying around. Check George Coy, or who ever your favorite
parts guy is for a set of these. Ask for the aluminum wasters for the
compressor banjo fitting.

Typically, the air leaks around the threads where the whole actual fitting
tightens into the compressor assembly itself. Yes, it can leak at other
areas too... but the above has happened to me more times than I can count.
You have to remove the bottom bolt... and this will allow the banjo looking
piece to SLIDE directly off the rest of the piece. BE CAREFUL... there are
washers in here... and you need to keep careful track of where they go for
reassembly! CAREFUL!

Once the banjo fitting is removed, you can use a deep well socket wrench to
screw out the rest of the piece. My advice? Clean all the threads off and
then use a thread LOCKER on the thing. Just this one piece. Using thread
locker and new washer, put it back on. I do not know the exact torque that
is called for... but I tried tight... and that didn't work. I then tried
very tight... and that was better. I then tried TIGHT AS HELL WITHOUT
STRIPPING THE DARN THING... and that has finally lasted about a year or
more!

After that is done, put your banjo piece back on along with the washers and
bottom bolt. Tighten it up just where it can still be rotated easily...
THEN attach the rigid line leading over to the snot valve and get it FAIRLY
tight. After THAT, tighten the bottom Banjo fitting bolt all the way, being
careful not to allow rotation that would bend and crack the line leading to
the snot valve. After that fully tighten the #5 line going to the Banjo
from snot valve.

Some might argue to not put the rigid line on before having the BANJO all
the way tightened. That is your call... but getting the banjo perfectly
tight and having it perfectly aligned to the rigid line at the same time is
rather vexing... to put it mildly.

Lastly... there is a way to check to see if this is where the leak is...
first, look for some snot around the banjo fitting. Black to brown looking
goo all around it. If you have a source of higher pressure air, you can
reverse feed air back to the compressor. Simply pull the fitting off of the
snot valve and hook to a source of 700 psi air. Turn on and listen for
leaks with the engine NOT running. There is a check valve in the compressor
to keep it from getting back that far. You should now easily identify the
leak.

Also.... once you have the line disconnected from the banjo fitting, take it
off from the snot valve as well and give it a careful inspection. Just for
the sake of ... why not... it's right there anyway!

As for the Sukhoi Flex line.... I got mine from Vladimir Yastremski. I got
it after looking over Hubie Tolsons SU-26MX and seeing a line in it that
looked the perfect length.

Good luck,

Mark
N50YK





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