Flipping Rebel Fuselage

[Terry Dazey]

Hello Rebelers:

My fuselage assembly is sitting on the bench - tail up 16 inches. Everything
is drilled and clecoed from the forward uprights, instrument panel,
instrument panel stiffeners to the firewall, WITH THE EXCEPTION OF the
engine mount bracket assemblies, lower forward corner wraps and floor pan
FUS-7 at the carrythroughs.

I would like to jump ahead in the manual and drill all of the engine mount
brackets, gussets and brackets through the firewall before flipping the
fuselage. Once this is accomplished, I could debur the four - 5/16 inch
engine mount holes at the firewall which would allow me to rivet the witches
hats, Wayne's firewall stiffener kit, FUS-7 to the firewall and FUS-11's to
the firewall and uprights etc. My main thrust is that I could eliminate many
clecos, hence, make this area lighter when time comes to flip the fuselage.

The thing I am concerned about is NOT having the lower forward corner wraps
drilled and clecoed and the floor pan (FUS-7) drilled and clecoed at the
carrythroughs. If I go ahead and drill all of my engine
mounts/brackets/gussets now (leaving the corner wraps and floor pan at the
carrythroughs undrilled/unclecoed, will everything stay stable and lined up
once the fuselage is flipped upside down? It seems things are pretty tight
now, but I am concerned that when I start to move the fuselage for flipping,
things might shift on me.

I know that the manual as you flip the fuselage, drill the lower corner
wraps, FUS-7 floor pan to the carrythroughs and THEN drill and install the
engine mount brackets and associated parts. BUT in summary, my main thrust
is to get the engine mount brackets/gussets etc. drilled so I can final
rivet most of the aluminum parts forward of the carrythrough which will make
the front end a lot lighter when it comes time to flip the fuselage
upsidedown.

Am I over paranoid or is my concern justified? What has others done here?

Thanks in advance for any comments on this subject.

Terry Dazey
Rebel 662



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[Murray Cherkas]

Terry:

I would have the engine mount to use for a jig to line up and drill the
engine mount holes. You want these holes to be tight. Each engine mount
might be a little different. Using MAM's dimensions could leave to much room
for error. IMHO.
I put carpet on 2x8's, slid under fuse on table and rolled it over. Worked
for me.

Good Luck

Murray



-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of Terry
Dazey
Sent: Sunday, November 16, 2003 2:21 PM
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: Flipping Rebel Fuselage

Hello Rebelers:

My fuselage assembly is sitting on the bench - tail up 16 inches. Everything
is drilled and clecoed from the forward uprights, instrument panel,
instrument panel stiffeners to the firewall, WITH THE EXCEPTION OF the
engine mount bracket assemblies, lower forward corner wraps and floor pan
FUS-7 at the carrythroughs.

I would like to jump ahead in the manual and drill all of the engine mount
brackets, gussets and brackets through the firewall before flipping the
fuselage. Once this is accomplished, I could debur the four - 5/16 inch
engine mount holes at the firewall which would allow me to rivet the witches
hats, Wayne's firewall stiffener kit, FUS-7 to the firewall and FUS-11's to
the firewall and uprights etc. My main thrust is that I could eliminate many
clecos, hence, make this area lighter when time comes to flip the fuselage.

The thing I am concerned about is NOT having the lower forward corner wraps
drilled and clecoed and the floor pan (FUS-7) drilled and clecoed at the
carrythroughs. If I go ahead and drill all of my engine
mounts/brackets/gussets now (leaving the corner wraps and floor pan at the
carrythroughs undrilled/unclecoed, will everything stay stable and lined up
once the fuselage is flipped upside down? It seems things are pretty tight
now, but I am concerned that when I start to move the fuselage for flipping,
things might shift on me.

I know that the manual as you flip the fuselage, drill the lower corner
wraps, FUS-7 floor pan to the carrythroughs and THEN drill and install the
engine mount brackets and associated parts. BUT in summary, my main thrust
is to get the engine mount brackets/gussets etc. drilled so I can final
rivet most of the aluminum parts forward of the carrythrough which will make
the front end a lot lighter when it comes time to flip the fuselage
upsidedown.

Am I over paranoid or is my concern justified? What has others done here?

Thanks in advance for any comments on this subject.

Terry Dazey
Rebel 662



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[Wayne G. O'Shea]

Terry and all, posted 2 pics to Rebel -Fuselage (or new) of how I flip the
fuselage by bolting angles into the carrythrough to sit the whole assembly
on blocks on the floor, upside down. This is much better than MAM's idea of
a foam mattress that squashes the roof and this way everything's stays
solidly in place as well. I just put a piece of cardboard on the floor for
the top of the fin and shim with wood for an even sitting surface for load
distribution on the fin top. Note in the pictures how many things are still
not installed on the fuselage and I have never had any problems with
shifting/alignment problems.
Shortcuts to pics:
http://www.dcsol.com:81/file/area29/Ang ... hrough.jpg
http://www.dcsol.com:81/file/area29/Fus ... olted+into+
carrythrough.jpg

Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: "Terry Dazey" <dazey@earthlink.net>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Sunday, November 16, 2003 4:20 PM
Subject: Flipping Rebel Fuselage

Hello Rebelers:

My fuselage assembly is sitting on the bench - tail up 16 inches.

Everything

is drilled and clecoed from the forward uprights, instrument panel,
instrument panel stiffeners to the firewall, WITH THE EXCEPTION OF the
engine mount bracket assemblies, lower forward corner wraps and floor pan
FUS-7 at the carrythroughs.

I would like to jump ahead in the manual and drill all of the engine mount
brackets, gussets and brackets through the firewall before flipping the
fuselage. Once this is accomplished, I could debur the four - 5/16 inch
engine mount holes at the firewall which would allow me to rivet the

witches

hats, Wayne's firewall stiffener kit, FUS-7 to the firewall and FUS-11's

to

the firewall and uprights etc. My main thrust is that I could eliminate

many

clecos, hence, make this area lighter when time comes to flip the

fuselage.

The thing I am concerned about is NOT having the lower forward corner

wraps

drilled and clecoed and the floor pan (FUS-7) drilled and clecoed at the
carrythroughs. If I go ahead and drill all of my engine
mounts/brackets/gussets now (leaving the corner wraps and floor pan at the
carrythroughs undrilled/unclecoed, will everything stay stable and lined

up

once the fuselage is flipped upside down? It seems things are pretty tight
now, but I am concerned that when I start to move the fuselage for

flipping,

things might shift on me.

I know that the manual as you flip the fuselage, drill the lower corner
wraps, FUS-7 floor pan to the carrythroughs and THEN drill and install the
engine mount brackets and associated parts. BUT in summary, my main thrust
is to get the engine mount brackets/gussets etc. drilled so I can final
rivet most of the aluminum parts forward of the carrythrough which will

make

the front end a lot lighter when it comes time to flip the fuselage
upsidedown.

Am I over paranoid or is my concern justified? What has others done here?

Thanks in advance for any comments on this subject.

Terry Dazey
Rebel 662

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