Do you want this big green box to go away? Well here's how...

Click here for full update

Wildcat! photo archives restored.

Click here for full update

Donors can now disable ads.

Click here for instructions

Add yourself to the user map.

Click here for instructions

cowling mods

Converted from Wildcat! database. (read only)
Locked
Mike Davis

cowling mods

Post by Mike Davis » Fri Feb 17, 2012 5:19 pm

Received: from [137.186.224.108] (helo=ms01-108.tor.istar.ca)
by mail4.toronto.istar.net with smtp (Exim 1.92 #2)
for murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
id 112n9s-0004fy-00; Fri, 9 Jul 1999 22:46:32 -0400
X-Sender: crs1188@inforamp.net
X-Mailer: Windows Eudora Light Version 1.5.2
Mime-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com> (Murphy Rebel Builders List)
From: Bob Patterson <bob.patterson@canrem.com>
Subject: Re: cowling mods
Message-Id: <E112n9s-0004fy-00@mail4.toronto.istar.net>
Date: Fri, 9 Jul 1999 22:46:32 -0400


Rich,
Unless you really like the look (and price) of the Murphy glass
cowl, you are MUCH better off with the standard Murphy cowl, with the
firbreglass nosebowl & metal sides. It can be made very clean, and MUCH
easier for engine access !

Tobey Riley made one of the nicest setups I've seen ! He ran a strip
of .025 aluminum about 2" wide, all around the inside of the back of the
nose bowl, with half of it inside the bowl, and half out. It was rivetted
to the nose bowl. This stiffens it up considerably, and helps avoid the
inevitable cracks in fibreglass cowls. (You might have to flute the strip
a bit ..)

He then moved the 2 aluminum side channels up to almost horizontal,
more in line with the cylinders. Next, he added piano hinges top AND bottom
on these channels, as well as piano hinges on left & right of both the
top channel, and the channel at the bottom that supports the air cleaner.
The top cowl is trimmed back at the front, so it rests on the aluminum
lip of the nosebowl, on chafing tapes. This gives a nice, flush top to
the cowling, and stops the metal from digging into the fibreglass, like
the original Murphy setup. The extra hinges stiffen the cowl a bit, too.

With the extra piano hinges, all you have to do is pull the 2 middle
pins, and the cowl opens up top & bottom, to give GREAT access to the engine
!

And you don't have to figure out where to put the great big chunk of
fibreglass that you are stuck with on the "speed cowl" (no measurable speed
improvement !). This can be VERY awkward on floats !! :-)

As you can tell, I'm not a big fan of all-fibreglass cowls ! ;-)

Good luck !! Keep wrestling with your cowl, it'll be worth the
fight, with these small mods. !!
.....bobp

----------------------------orig.-----------------------------------------
At 06:30 PM 7/9/99 -0700, you wrote:
I have been struggling for two weeks to get my original alum. cowl to
fit with the 0-290. The problem was it was not all that well made in the
first place. I am just not happy with it. Does any one have any
suggestions for a good fiberglass cowl? I understand that the Murphy
speed cowl needs to be modified with some installations.
Rich

*----------------------------------------------------*
The Murphy Rebel Builders List is for the discussion
between builders and owners of Murphy Rebel aircraft.
Archives located at:
http://www.dcsol.com/murphy-rebel/lists/default.htm
*----------------------------------------------------*



Locked