N 83MR

Mike Davis · Post by **Mike Davis** » Fri Feb 17, 2012 5:19 pm

Received: from i4b5h7 (storchpilot.ne.mediaone.net [24.218.100.56])
by chmls05.mediaone.net (8.8.7/8.8.7) with SMTP id KAA16075
for <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>; Sun, 4 Jul 1999 10:44:40 -0400 (EDT)
Message-ID: <000f01bec62b$e4b03880$3864da18@i4b5h7.ne.mediaone.net>
From: "Geert Frank" <storchpilot@mediaone.net>
To: "murphy archives" <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Subject: N 83MR
Date: Sun, 4 Jul 1999 10:45:43 -0400
MIME-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
boundary="----=_NextPart_000_000C_01BEC60A.5D6C3DE0"
X-Priority: 3
X-MSMail-Priority: Normal
X-Mailer: Microsoft Outlook Express 4.72.3110.1
X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V4.72.3110.3

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

------=_NextPart_000_000C_01BEC60A.5D6C3DE0
Content-Type: text/plain;
charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Hi to all, I guess I better say a few words and a triple help, somebody, =
please! First, bobp. is a heck of a guy, I still can't believe that =
after all he does for the "Rebel Movement", he goes unpaid. Even has to =
pay his own way at these airshows, like Sun 'N Fun. I think he is =
putting me on (no Bob, you cannot comment this once!) or is he?
About his comments about my Rebel (minor correction it is N83MR, not N =
89MR), they are all quite valid. The only thing I disagree on regarding =
his comments is the anticipated trial and error period after you =
installed a Subaru Legacy engine. Yeah, that went for me, that went for =
other pioneers, that got some bad advice from the many false, but often =
well-meaning, prophets out there, but you put a Subaru in now, there is =
no reason whatsoever that you cannot do it correctly right from the =
start. I wish I could charge for a set of instructions, after all it =
took me lots of money, blood and sweat, but that does not seem feasible, =
but you will by-pass all the grief and do it right the first time and =
you do not have to anticipate any period of teething problems.
It is probably a little like the more recent kit builders getting the =
benefits of the previous guys' sorrows. Finally once you have flown and =
sat behind a good running Subaru( anno 1998, 1999 for example) you are =
not going to wish for a 1935-design-Lycoming with 30 or 40 year-old =
parts and many illegible signature overhauls and you will only enhance =
the value of your Rebel, not diminish it. Mark my word.
Now about the triple help I need: I have a conventional landing gear. =
Instead of the Murphy supplied cord I used those bungee loops, designed =
for 400 lbs each. I use heavier and longer through-bolts and have as =
much bolt sticking out forward(both sides) as aft (both sides). I use =
spacers around the bolt(again for and aft of the gearleg) with the large =
penny washers at the ends. I have 3 of the above loops at each position =
left and right so that is a total of four positions or 12 bungee loops.
I noticed a bulge in the bungee covers (rh side) and upon removal of =
cover found that, presumably during a firm landing, LG 4 had slid =
completely out of its lower slide tube assy (LG 43) and was hanging down =
with the frayed remnant of the safety cable hanging out of it. What was =
holding the right leg on? The pressure from those six bungee loops on =
that side, that's all. They sort of jammed the lower slide tube into the =
cloverleaf assy.
Can you believe this? I have been very pleased with the conventional =
gear set-up, although I became aware that maybe the gear was a little =
too stiff. However, people weighing less than yours truly, were also =
using the above total of 12 bungee loops. bobp says I should maybe let =
some air out of the tires!? Anybody else have any input? But here is =
where I need the real help: Here I sit, I got one of those engine hoists =
and put a cable loop around the engine mount on the right side. I =
can't jack at the wheel obviously, because I have to have the whole =
landing gear to work on, how do I safely remove those damn loops? bobp =
says a very heavy duty strap will pull them apart, anybody else? Next =
what tool can I beg, steal or borrow to put the new loops back on?
Originally it was done by some J-3 expert that had a special tool looked =
like a modified car jack!
Needless to say I will have to disassemble the left side also, because =
it's safety cable is most likely also shot or near shot.
The new parts I ordered from Murphy came very promptly. They also are =
now recommending the use of a safety cable loop rather than that long =
cable inside the leg. What was curious is, that the new LG-5's were =
quite a bit longer than the original ones. Another one of those Murphy =
mysteries? Should a bulletin have been issued? If one of those gear legs =
collapses, you are looking at a world of damage. Eh Dave? Anway it =
would almost be worthwhile for somebody to make up a nice tool both for =
removal and installation of those loops and rent it out to people that =
need it in the future at a reasonable fee so he can recoup his expense. =
I am of course assuming that not everybody has gone the spring steel =
landing gear. Any help to do this project of loop removal and =
reinstalling SAFELY would be much appreciated. Geert Frank

------=_NextPart_000_000C_01BEC60A.5D6C3DE0
Content-Type: text/html;
charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>

<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.72.3110.7"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000>Hi to all, I guess I better say a few words =
and a=20
triple help, somebody, please! First, bobp. is a heck of a guy, I still =
can't=20
believe that after all he does for the "Rebel Movement", he =
goes=20
unpaid. Even has to pay his own way at these airshows, like Sun 'N Fun. =
I think=20
he is putting me on (no Bob, you cannot comment this once!) or is=20
he?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000>About his comments about my Rebel (minor =
correction it=20
is N83MR, not N 89MR), they are all quite valid. The only thing I =
disagree on=20
regarding his comments is the anticipated trial and error period after =
you=20
installed a Subaru Legacy engine. Yeah, that went for me, that went for =
other=20
pioneers, that got some bad advice from the many false, but often=20
well-meaning,  prophets out there, but you put a Subaru in now, =
there is no=20
reason whatsoever that you cannot do it correctly right from the start. =
I wish I=20
could charge for a set of instructions, after all it took me lots of =
money,=20
blood and sweat, but that does not seem feasible, but you will by-pass =
all the=20
grief and do it right the first time and you do not have to anticipate =
any=20
period of teething problems.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000>It is probably a little like the more recent =
kit=20
builders getting the benefits of the previous guys' sorrows.  =
Finally once=20
you have flown and sat behind a good running Subaru( anno 1998, 1999 for =

example) you are not going to wish for a 1935-design-Lycoming with 30 or =
40=20
year-old parts and many illegible signature overhauls and you will only =
enhance=20
the value of your Rebel, not diminish it. Mark my word.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000>Now about the triple help I need:  I =
have a=20
conventional landing gear. Instead of the Murphy supplied cord I used =
those=20
bungee loops, designed for 400 lbs each. I use heavier and longer =
through-bolts=20
and have as much bolt sticking out forward(both sides) as aft (both =
sides). I=20
use spacers around the bolt(again for and aft of the gearleg) with the =
large=20
penny washers at the ends. I have 3 of the above loops at each position =
left and=20
right so that is a total of four positions or 12 bungee =
loops.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000>I noticed a bulge in the bungee covers (rh =
side) and=20
upon removal of cover found that, presumably during a firm landing, LG 4 =
had=20
slid completely out of its lower slide tube assy (LG 43) and was hanging =
down=20
with the frayed remnant of the safety cable hanging out of it. What was =
holding=20
the right leg on?  The pressure from those six bungee loops on that =
side,=20
that's all. They sort of jammed the lower slide tube into the cloverleaf =

assy.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000>Can you believe this?    I =
have been=20
very pleased with the conventional gear set-up, although I became aware =
that=20
maybe the gear was a little too stiff. However, people weighing less =
than yours=20
truly, were also using the above total of 12 bungee loops.  bobp =
says I=20
should maybe let some air out of the tires!? Anybody else have any=20
input?     But here is where I need the real help: =
Here I=20
sit, I got one of those engine hoists and put a cable loop around the =
engine=20
mount on the right side.   I can't jack at the wheel =
obviously,=20
because I have to have the whole landing gear to work on, how do I =
safely remove=20
those damn loops? bobp says a very heavy duty strap will pull  them =
apart,=20
anybody else?   Next what tool can I beg, steal or borrow to =
put the=20
new loops back on?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000>Originally it was done by some J-3 expert =
that had a=20
special tool looked like a modified car jack!</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000>Needless to say I will have to disassemble =
the left=20
side also, because it's safety cable is most likely also shot or near=20
shot.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000>The new parts I ordered from Murphy came very =
promptly.=20
They also are now recommending the use of a safety cable loop rather =
than that=20
long cable inside the leg. What was curious is, that the new LG-5's were =
quite a=20
bit longer than the original ones. Another one of those Murphy =
mysteries? Should=20
a bulletin have been issued? If one of those gear legs collapses, you =
are=20
looking at a world of damage. Eh Dave?  Anway it would almost be =
worthwhile=20
for somebody to make up a nice tool both for removal and installation of =
those=20
loops  and rent it out to people that need it in the future at a =
reasonable=20
fee so he can recoup his expense. I am of course assuming that not =
everybody has=20
gone the spring steel landing gear.  Any help to do this project of =
loop=20
removal and reinstalling SAFELY would be much appreciated.   =
Geert=20
Frank</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

------=_NextPart_000_000C_01BEC60A.5D6C3DE0--

Mike Davis · Post by **Mike Davis** » Fri Feb 17, 2012 5:19 pm

Received: from enaila.nidlink.com (root@enaila.nidlink.com [216.18.128.8])
by lanfear.nidlink.com (8.9.0/8.9.0) with ESMTP id OAA14024
for <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>; Sun, 4 Jul 1999 14:39:32 -0700 (PDT)
Received: from nidlink.com (pm5-29.nidlink.com [216.18.141.36])
by enaila.nidlink.com (8.9.0/8.9.0) with ESMTP id OAA22732
for <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>; Sun, 4 Jul 1999 14:39:30 -0700 (PDT)
Message-ID: <377FD6B1.92CCB1EE@nidlink.com>
Date: Sun, 04 Jul 1999 14:48:33 -0700
From: subersys <subersys@nidlink.com>
X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.5 [en] (Win95; I)
X-Accept-Language: en
MIME-Version: 1.0
To: " (Murphy Rebel Builders List)" <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Subject: Re: N 83MR
References: <000f01bec62b$e4b03880$3864da18@i4b5h7.ne.mediaone.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=x-user-defined
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
X-MIME-Autoconverted: from 8bit to quoted-printable by lanfear.nidlink.com
id OAA14024

Geert Frank wrote:
=20
Hi to all, I guess I better say a few words and a triple help,
somebody, please! First, bobp. is a heck of a guy, I still can't
believe that after all he does for the "Rebel Movement", he goes
unpaid. Even has to pay his own way at these airshows, like Sun 'N
Fun. I think he is putting me on (no Bob, you cannot comment this
once!) or is he?
About his comments about my Rebel (minor correction it is N83MR, not N
89MR), they are all quite valid. The only thing I disagree on
regarding his comments is the anticipated trial and error period after
you installed a Subaru Legacy engine. Yeah, that went for me, that
went for other pioneers, that got some bad advice from the many false,
but often well-meaning,=A0 prophets out there, but you put a Subaru in
now, there is no reason whatsoever that you cannot do it correctly
right from the start. I wish I could charge for a set of instructions,
after all it took me lots of money, blood and sweat, but that does not
seem feasible, but you will by-pass all the grief and do it right the
first time and you do not have to anticipate any period of teething
problems.
It is probably a little like the more recent kit builders getting the
benefits of the previous guys' sorrows.=A0 Finally once you have flown
and sat behind a good running Subaru( anno 1998, 1999 for example) you
are not going to wish for a 1935-design-Lycoming with 30 or 40
year-old parts and many illegible signature overhauls and you will
only enhance the value of your Rebel, not diminish it. Mark my word.
Now about the triple help I need:=A0 I have a conventional landing gear.
Instead of the Murphy supplied cord I used those bungee loops,
designed for 400 lbs each. I use heavier and longer through-bolts and
have as much bolt sticking out forward(both sides) as aft (both
sides). I use spacers around the bolt(again for and aft of the
gearleg) with the large penny washers at the ends. I have 3 of the
above loops at each position left and right so that is a total of four
positions or 12 bungee loops.
I noticed a bulge in the bungee covers (rh side) and upon removal of
cover found that, presumably during a firm landing, LG 4 had slid
completely out of its lower slide tube assy (LG 43) and was hanging
down with the frayed remnant of the safety cable hanging out of it.
What was holding the right leg on?=A0 The pressure from those six bunge=

e

loops on that side, that's all. They sort of jammed the lower slide
tube into the cloverleaf assy.
Can you believe this?=A0=A0=A0 I have been very pleased with the
conventional gear set-up, although I became aware that maybe the gear
was a little too stiff. However, people weighing less than yours
truly, were also using the above total of 12 bungee loops.=A0 bobp says
I should maybe let some air out of the tires!? Anybody else have any
input?=A0=A0=A0=A0 But here is where I need the real help: Here I sit, =

I got

one of those engine hoists and put a cable loop around the engine
mount on the right side.=A0=A0 I can't jack at the wheel obviously,
because I have to have the whole landing gear to work on, how do I
safely remove those damn loops? bobp says a very heavy duty strap will
pull=A0 them apart, anybody else?=A0=A0 Next what tool can I beg, steal=

or

borrow to put the new loops back on?
Originally it was done by some J-3 expert that had a special tool
looked like a modified car jack!
Needless to say I will have to disassemble the left side also, because
it's safety cable is most likely also shot or near shot.
The new parts I ordered from Murphy came very promptly. They also are
now recommending the use of a safety cable loop rather than that long
cable inside the leg. What was curious is, that the new LG-5's were
quite a bit longer than the original ones. Another one of those Murphy
mysteries? Should a bulletin have been issued? If one of those gear
legs collapses, you are looking at a world of damage. Eh Dave?=A0 Anway
it would almost be worthwhile for somebody to make up a nice tool both
for removal and installation of those loops=A0 and rent it out to peopl=

e

that need it in the future at a reasonable fee so he can recoup his
expense. I am of course assuming that not everybody has gone the
spring steel landing gear.=A0 Any help to do this project of loop
removal and reinstalling SAFELY would be much appreciated.=A0=A0 Geert
Frank

Geert, I apologize. I will sent my tool out on Tuesday. I have been so
darn bush I have forgotten you. It will need 2 new pieces of all
thread, preferred grade 8. It is then yours to loan to others who need
it. I can make me another for less than it would cost you to send it
back. Glad to hear the Subaru is working so well.
--=20
Dave Bangle http://www.subielyc.com/

Mike Davis · Post by **Mike Davis** » Fri Feb 17, 2012 5:19 pm

Received: from enaila.nidlink.com (root@enaila.nidlink.com [216.18.128.8])
by lanfear.nidlink.com (8.9.0/8.9.0) with ESMTP id SAA25971
for <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>; Sun, 4 Jul 1999 18:06:58 -0700 (PDT)
Received: from nidlink.com (pm9-12.nidlink.com [216.18.141.67])
by enaila.nidlink.com (8.9.0/8.9.0) with ESMTP id SAA19469
for <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>; Sun, 4 Jul 1999 18:06:45 -0700 (PDT)
Message-ID: <3780073E.40EB7636@nidlink.com>
Date: Sun, 04 Jul 1999 18:15:42 -0700
From: subersys <subersys@nidlink.com>
X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.5 [en] (Win95; I)
X-Accept-Language: en
MIME-Version: 1.0
To: " (Murphy Rebel Builders List)" <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Subject: Re: N 83MR
References: <000f01bec62b$e4b03880$3864da18@i4b5h7.ne.mediaone.net>

klehman@albedo.net wrote:

Ooh can anyone give a description of this tool ?

What I made was pretty simple and worked better than the store bought
version I had the opportunity to use a couple of years later.

First off, getting the old rings off is not a problem. I used a knife.
They are under very little tension and don't present any danger just
cutting them.

The tool is made with 2 pipe nipples and 2 pieces of 1\2" all thread. I
used 1 1\2" dia nipples 6" long. Cut each nipple on one end so that it
will over hang the fender washers, i.e. slip over it. Drill 2 holes in
each nipple for the all thread to fit through. About 1.5" from each end
works. I don't have the tool in front of me so I am guessing on some of
this. Run 3 nuts into the center of each all thread. Then slide a pipe
nipple on each end, leaving the 3 nuts between them.

Clear as mud I'm sure by this point. In principle you will put the
bungee over the nipples on the cutout end of the nipples. Lock two of
the nuts together so they won't move on the all thread, then use the
other nut to spread the nipples apart. I found that the second (outer)
all thread was more of a guide than anything and didn't require the
running on the nuts. When the bungee gets stretched to the point where
the nipples will slide over the fender washers on the gear, uniformly
roll the bungee off the tool onto the gear.

I use a drill on the all thread and just hold the one nut. Makes it
very fast and easy. Use grade 8 all thread as the grade 5 version will
take a dump after about 6 cycles. Just to soft. It also helps to weld
bushings through the nipples for the all thread to slide through. Not
absolutely necessary, but really helps alot. Keeps everything tighter
to with less flex in the tool.

Have attached a drawing to try and keep this description under 1000
words.

--
Dave Bangle http://www.subielyc.com/

-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------

Mike Davis · Post by **Mike Davis** » Fri Feb 17, 2012 5:19 pm

Received: from albedo.net (ppp117.albedo.net [206.51.22.136])
by juliet.albedo.net (8.9.0/8.9.0) with ESMTP id KAA12753
for <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>; Mon, 5 Jul 1999 10:28:02 -0400
Message-ID: <37801270.6282F121@albedo.net>
Date: Sun, 04 Jul 1999 22:03:28 -0400
From: klehman@albedo.net
X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.05 [en] (Win95; I)
MIME-Version: 1.0
To: " (Murphy Rebel Builders List)" <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Subject: Re: N 83MR
References: <000f01bec62b$e4b03880$3864da18@i4b5h7.ne.mediaone.net>

<377FD6B1.92CCB1EE@nidlink.com> <377FE811.6A5EDE0F@albedo.net>

<3780073E.40EB7636@nidlink.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

thanks Dave
Great idea. The sketch was perfect. Much simpler than what I was thinking
of. A
similar tool with two rods on each nipple would probably remove the rings if
one
was trying to re-use them.
Ken

Mike Davis · Post by **Mike Davis** » Fri Feb 17, 2012 5:19 pm

Received: from enaila.nidlink.com (root@enaila.nidlink.com [216.18.128.8])
by lanfear.nidlink.com (8.9.0/8.9.0) with ESMTP id HAA01245
for <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>; Mon, 5 Jul 1999 07:44:17 -0700 (PDT)
Received: from nidlink.com (pm5-45.nidlink.com [216.18.141.52])
by enaila.nidlink.com (8.9.0/8.9.0) with ESMTP id HAA05333
for <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>; Mon, 5 Jul 1999 07:44:16 -0700 (PDT)
Message-ID: <3780C6DF.E8EBC9A9@nidlink.com>
Date: Mon, 05 Jul 1999 07:53:19 -0700
From: subersys <subersys@nidlink.com>
X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.5 [en] (Win95; I)
X-Accept-Language: en
MIME-Version: 1.0
To: " (Murphy Rebel Builders List)" <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Subject: Re: N 83MR
References: <000f01bec62b$e4b03880$3864da18@i4b5h7.ne.mediaone.net>

<377FD6B1.92CCB1EE@nidlink.com> <377FE811.6A5EDE0F@albedo.net>

<3780073E.40EB7636@nidlink.com> <37801270.6282F121@albedo.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=x-user-defined
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

klehman@albedo.net wrote:

thanks Dave
Great idea. The sketch was perfect. Much simpler than what I was thinking

of. A

similar tool with two rods on each nipple would probably remove the rings

if one

was trying to re-use them.
Ken

Hadn't considered that. Let me know how it works.
Anyway..........Geert, my old tool will be on its way to you tomorrow.
--
Dave Bangle http://www.subielyc.com/

Mike Davis · Post by **Mike Davis** » Fri Feb 17, 2012 5:19 pm

Received: from tim - 209.119.137.69 by email.msn.com with Microsoft SMTPSVC;
Tue, 6 Jul 1999 10:06:24 -0700
Reply-To: <tlcarter@msn.com>
From: "Tim Carter" <tlcarter@email.msn.com>
To: "'Murphy Rebel Builders List'" <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Subject: RE: N 83MR
Date: Tue, 6 Jul 1999 10:10:21 -0700
Message-ID: <000b01bec7d3$aa4aac80$14640a0a@tim>
MIME-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
boundary="----=_NextPart_000_000C_01BEC798.FDEBD480"
X-Priority: 3 (Normal)
X-MSMail-Priority: Normal
X-Mailer: Microsoft Outlook 8.5, Build 4.71.2173.0
Importance: Normal
X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.2314.1300
In-Reply-To: <000f01bec62b$e4b03880$3864da18@i4b5h7.ne.mediaone.net>
Return-Path: tlcarter@email.msn.com

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

------=_NextPart_000_000C_01BEC798.FDEBD480
Content-Type: text/plain;
charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Frank:

You mention LG-4 sliding into (or out of in your case) LG-43. Later in the
text you mention LG-5's being longer than the original...

How long are the 'new' LG-5's? (and, did you mean LG-4's?)

Tim
#438R
-----Original Message-----
From: Geert Frank [mailto:storchpilot@mediaone.net]
Sent: Sunday, July 04, 1999 7:46 AM
To: murphy archives
Subject: N 83MR

Hi to all, I guess I better say a few words and a triple help, somebody,
please! First, bobp. is a heck of a guy, I still can't believe that after
all he does for the "Rebel Movement", he goes unpaid. Even has to pay his
own way at these airshows, like Sun 'N Fun. I think he is putting me on (no
Bob, you cannot comment this once!) or is he?
About his comments about my Rebel (minor correction it is N83MR, not N
89MR), they are all quite valid. The only thing I disagree on regarding his
comments is the anticipated trial and error period after you installed a
Subaru Legacy engine. Yeah, that went for me, that went for other pioneers,
that got some bad advice from the many false, but often well-meaning,
prophets out there, but you put a Subaru in now, there is no reason
whatsoever that you cannot do it correctly right from the start. I wish I
could charge for a set of instructions, after all it took me lots of money,
blood and sweat, but that does not seem feasible, but you will by-pass all
the grief and do it right the first time and you do not have to anticipate
any period of teething problems.
It is probably a little like the more recent kit builders getting the
benefits of the previous guys' sorrows. Finally once you have flown and sat
behind a good running Subaru( anno 1998, 1999 for example) you are not going
to wish for a 1935-design-Lycoming with 30 or 40 year-old parts and many
illegible signature overhauls and you will only enhance the value of your
Rebel, not diminish it. Mark my word.
Now about the triple help I need: I have a conventional landing gear.
Instead of the Murphy supplied cord I used those bungee loops, designed for
400 lbs each. I use heavier and longer through-bolts and have as much bolt
sticking out forward(both sides) as aft (both sides). I use spacers around
the bolt(again for and aft of the gearleg) with the large penny washers at
the ends. I have 3 of the above loops at each position left and right so
that is a total of four positions or 12 bungee loops.
I noticed a bulge in the bungee covers (rh side) and upon removal of cover
found that, presumably during a firm landing, LG 4 had slid completely out
of its lower slide tube assy (LG 43) and was hanging down with the frayed
remnant of the safety cable hanging out of it. What was holding the right
leg on? The pressure from those six bungee loops on that side, that's all.
They sort of jammed the lower slide tube into the cloverleaf assy.
Can you believe this? I have been very pleased with the conventional
gear set-up, although I became aware that maybe the gear was a little too
stiff. However, people weighing less than yours truly, were also using the
above total of 12 bungee loops. bobp says I should maybe let some air out
of the tires!? Anybody else have any input? But here is where I need the
real help: Here I sit, I got one of those engine hoists and put a cable loop
around the engine mount on the right side. I can't jack at the wheel
obviously, because I have to have the whole landing gear to work on, how do
I safely remove those damn loops? bobp says a very heavy duty strap will
pull them apart, anybody else? Next what tool can I beg, steal or borrow
to put the new loops back on?
Originally it was done by some J-3 expert that had a special tool looked
like a modified car jack!
Needless to say I will have to disassemble the left side also, because
it's safety cable is most likely also shot or near shot.
The new parts I ordered from Murphy came very promptly. They also are now
recommending the use of a safety cable loop rather than that long cable
inside the leg. What was curious is, that the new LG-5's were quite a bit
longer than the original ones. Another one of those Murphy mysteries? Should
a bulletin have been issued? If one of those gear legs collapses, you are
looking at a world of damage. Eh Dave? Anway it would almost be worthwhile
for somebody to make up a nice tool both for removal and installation of
those loops and rent it out to people that need it in the future at a
reasonable fee so he can recoup his expense. I am of course assuming that
not everybody has gone the spring steel landing gear. Any help to do this
project of loop removal and reinstalling SAFELY would be much appreciated.
Geert Frank

------=_NextPart_000_000C_01BEC798.FDEBD480
Content-Type: text/html;
charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META HTTP-EQUIV=3D"Content-Type" CONTENT=3D"text/html; =
charset=3Diso-8859-1">

<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.00.2614.3401" name=3DGENERATOR></HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#0000ff face=3DArial size=3D2><SPAN=20
class=3D300260717-06071999>Frank:</SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#0000ff face=3DArial size=3D2><SPAN=20
class=3D300260717-06071999></SPAN></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#0000ff face=3DArial size=3D2><SPAN =
class=3D300260717-06071999>You=20
mention LG-4 sliding into (or out of in your case) LG-43.  Later in =
the=20
text you mention LG-5's being longer than the =
original...</SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#0000ff face=3DArial size=3D2><SPAN=20
class=3D300260717-06071999></SPAN></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#0000ff face=3DArial size=3D2><SPAN =
class=3D300260717-06071999>How=20
long are the 'new' LG-5's? (and, did you mean =
LG-4's?)</SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#0000ff face=3DArial size=3D2><SPAN=20
class=3D300260717-06071999></SPAN></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#0000ff face=3DArial size=3D2><SPAN=20
class=3D300260717-06071999>Tim</SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#0000ff face=3DArial size=3D2><SPAN=20
class=3D300260717-06071999>#438R</SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE style=3D"MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
<DIV class=3DOutlookMessageHeader><FONT face=3D"Times New Roman"=20
size=3D2>-----Original Message-----<BR><B>From:</B> Geert Frank=20
[mailto:storchpilot@mediaone.net]<BR><B>Sent:</B> Sunday, July 04, =
1999 7:46=20
AM<BR><B>To:</B> murphy archives<BR><B>Subject:</B> N=20
83MR<BR><BR></DIV></FONT>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000>Hi to all, I guess I better say a few words =
and a=20
triple help, somebody, please! First, bobp. is a heck of a guy, I =
still can't=20
believe that after all he does for the "Rebel Movement", he goes =
unpaid. Even=20
has to pay his own way at these airshows, like Sun 'N Fun. I think he =
is=20
putting me on (no Bob, you cannot comment this once!) or is =
he?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000>About his comments about my Rebel (minor =
correction=20
it is N83MR, not N 89MR), they are all quite valid. The only thing I =
disagree=20
on regarding his comments is the anticipated trial and error period =
after you=20
installed a Subaru Legacy engine. Yeah, that went for me, that went =
for other=20
pioneers, that got some bad advice from the many false, but often=20
well-meaning,  prophets out there, but you put a Subaru in now, =
there is=20
no reason whatsoever that you cannot do it correctly right from the =
start. I=20
wish I could charge for a set of instructions, after all it took me =
lots of=20
money, blood and sweat, but that does not seem feasible, but you will =
by-pass=20
all the grief and do it right the first time and you do not have to =
anticipate=20
any period of teething problems.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000>It is probably a little like the more =
recent kit=20
builders getting the benefits of the previous guys' sorrows.  =
Finally=20
once you have flown and sat behind a good running Subaru( anno 1998, =
1999 for=20
example) you are not going to wish for a 1935-design-Lycoming with 30 =
or 40=20
year-old parts and many illegible signature overhauls and you will =
only=20
enhance the value of your Rebel, not diminish it. Mark my =
word.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000>Now about the triple help I need:  I =
have a=20
conventional landing gear. Instead of the Murphy supplied cord I used =
those=20
bungee loops, designed for 400 lbs each. I use heavier and longer=20
through-bolts and have as much bolt sticking out forward(both sides) =
as aft=20
(both sides). I use spacers around the bolt(again for and aft of the =
gearleg)=20
with the large penny washers at the ends. I have 3 of the above loops =
at each=20
position left and right so that is a total of four positions or 12 =
bungee=20
loops.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000>I noticed a bulge in the bungee covers (rh =
side) and=20
upon removal of cover found that, presumably during a firm landing, LG =
4 had=20
slid completely out of its lower slide tube assy (LG 43) and was =
hanging down=20
with the frayed remnant of the safety cable hanging out of it. What =
was=20
holding the right leg on?  The pressure from those six bungee =
loops on=20
that side, that's all. They sort of jammed the lower slide tube into =
the=20
cloverleaf assy.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000>Can you believe this?    I =
have been=20
very pleased with the conventional gear set-up, although I became =
aware that=20
maybe the gear was a little too stiff. However, people weighing less =
than=20
yours truly, were also using the above total of 12 bungee loops.  =
bobp=20
says I should maybe let some air out of the tires!? Anybody else have =
any=20
input?     But here is where I need the real help: =
Here I=20
sit, I got one of those engine hoists and put a cable loop around the =
engine=20
mount on the right side.   I can't jack at the wheel =
obviously,=20
because I have to have the whole landing gear to work on, how do I =
safely=20
remove those damn loops? bobp says a very heavy duty strap will =
pull =20
them apart, anybody else?   Next what tool can I beg, steal =
or=20
borrow to put the new loops back on?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000>Originally it was done by some J-3 expert =
that had a=20
special tool looked like a modified car jack!</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000>Needless to say I will have to disassemble =
the left=20
side also, because it's safety cable is most likely also shot or near=20
shot.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000>The new parts I ordered from Murphy came =
very=20
promptly. They also are now recommending the use of a safety cable =
loop rather=20
than that long cable inside the leg. What was curious is, that the new =
LG-5's=20
were quite a bit longer than the original ones. Another one of those =
Murphy=20
mysteries? Should a bulletin have been issued? If one of those gear =
legs=20
collapses, you are looking at a world of damage. Eh Dave?  Anway =
it would=20
almost be worthwhile for somebody to make up a nice tool both for =
removal and=20
installation of those loops  and rent it out to people that need =
it in=20
the future at a reasonable fee so he can recoup his expense. I am of =
course=20
assuming that not everybody has gone the spring steel landing =
gear.  Any=20
help to do this project of loop removal and reinstalling SAFELY would =
be much=20
appreciated.   Geert =
Frank</FONT></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

------=_NextPart_000_000C_01BEC798.FDEBD480--

-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------

Mike Davis · Post by **Mike Davis** » Fri Feb 17, 2012 5:19 pm

Received: from [137.186.225.11] (helo=ms01-265.tor.istar.ca)
by mail4.toronto.istar.net with smtp (Exim 1.92 #2)
for murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
id 1125Kv-0001S0-00; Wed, 7 Jul 1999 23:59:01 -0400
X-Sender: crs1188@inforamp.net
X-Mailer: Windows Eudora Light Version 1.5.2
Mime-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com> (Murphy Rebel Builders List)
From: Bob Patterson <bob.patterson@canrem.com>
Subject: Re: N 83MR
Message-Id: <E1125Kv-0001S0-00@mail4.toronto.istar.net>
Date: Wed, 7 Jul 1999 23:59:01 -0400

That is exactly the way I get the bungees on and off, too !! I hook the
bottom strap hook into the gear leg tube at the bottom, and slip the top
hook between the bungees - it'll slide down easily.

If you want to make your own rings, instead of buying the 9044 rings,
there is a drawing of a gadget to make them on dcsol - I think it's called
'bgrings' ....

.....bobp

---------------------------------orig.------------------------------------
At 11:33 AM 7/6/99 EDT, you wrote:

Another way to get those pesky bungees off is to use one of those cheap
ratchet straps used for tying down loads. Attach lower hook on strap down
near wheel axel, hook top hook into one of bungees, ratchet till you clear
fender washers, use bar or screwdriver to manuever bungee over washer and
then release ratchet. It releases with a bit of a pop but seem to work for
me. I use a small cable on lower end to hook the lower hook to makes it a
little easier. Very quick. Installation reverse of removal. I have

started

using a wing jack to lift acft when working on gear. Very safe and very
quick also. I level acft w/sawhorse under tail, lift one wing with wing
jack. I place wing jack as close to outboard side of strut attach point on
wing as I can get, I have a padded board that goes from rear spar to front
spar that the wing jack slips into. A few turns on the jack and the wheel

is

safely off the ground.
*----------------------------------------------------*
The Murphy Rebel Builders List is for the discussion
between builders and owners of Murphy Rebel aircraft.
Archives located at:
http://www.dcsol.com/murphy-rebel/lists/default.htm
*----------------------------------------------------*

-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------

Mike Davis · Post by **Mike Davis** » Fri Feb 17, 2012 5:19 pm

Received: from aws1.bp.nrl.navy.mil [132.250.13.17]
(HELO localhost)
by alpha1.tf.bp.nrl.navy.mil (AltaVista Mail V2.0J/2.0J BL25J listener)
id 0000_0055_3784_8139_827d;
Thu, 08 Jul 1999 06:45:13 -0400
Received: by bpvax.tf.bp.nrl.navy.mil (UCX V4.2-21, OpenVMS V7.1 VAX);
Thu, 8 Jul 1999 10:45:36 -2359
Message-ID: <043501bec92e$fcfde990$b300a8c0@tf.bp.nrl.navy.mil>
From: "Mike Davis" <mike.davis@dcsol.com>
To: "Murphy Rebel Builders List" <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
References: <E1125Kv-0001S0-00@mail4.toronto.istar.net>
Subject: Re: N 83MR
Date: Thu, 8 Jul 1999 06:45:23 -0400
MIME-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain;
charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
X-Priority: 3
X-MSMail-Priority: Normal
X-Mailer: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.00.2014.211
X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.2014.211

Here is the exact link to the picture Bob is talking about...
ftp://ftp.dcsol.com/murphy-rebel/rebel/bgrings.jpg

Mike

----- Original Message -----
From: Bob Patterson <bob.patterson@canrem.com>
To: Murphy Rebel Builders List <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Wednesday, July 07, 1999 11:59 PM
Subject: Re: N 83MR

That is exactly the way I get the bungees on and off, too !! I hook

the

bottom strap hook into the gear leg tube at the bottom, and slip the top
hook between the bungees - it'll slide down easily.

If you want to make your own rings, instead of buying the 9044 rings,
there is a drawing of a gadget to make them on dcsol - I think it's called
'bgrings' ....

.....bobp

-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------