Plumbing

[Mike Davis]

Received: from 486dx2-80 (unverified [205.182.69.214]) by merlin.netexp.net
(Rockliffe SMTPRA 2.1.4) with SMTP id <B0000828584@merlin.netexp.net> for
<murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>;
Mon, 06 Apr 1998 10:36:10 -0400
Message-ID: <B0000828584@merlin.netexp.net>
From: "Joel Jacobs" <jj@netexp.net>
To: "Murphy Rebel" <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Subject: Plumbing
Date: Mon, 6 Apr 1998 10:31:53 -0400
X-Priority: 3
X-MSMail-Priority: Normal
X-Mailer: Microsoft Outlook Express 4.71.1712.3
X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V4.72.2106.4

Hi folks,
I'm ready to install the pitot/static lines in my wing and I was wondering
where would be the best exit location. In the root nose rib or through the
lift strut. If through the nose rib, what type of fittings could be used?

Thanks
Joel






-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------

[Mike Davis]

Received: from tim.intrixsg - 153.35.237.215 by email.msn.com with Microsoft
SMTPSVC;
Mon, 6 Apr 1998 11:08:48 -0700
Received: by localhost with Microsoft MAPI; Mon, 6 Apr 1998 11:07:14 -0700
Message-ID: <01BD614C.277DB340.tlcarter@email.msn.com>
From: Tim Carter <tlcarter@email.msn.com>
Reply-To: "tlcarter@msn.com" <tlcarter@msn.com>
To: "'murphy-rebel@dcsol.com'" <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Subject: RE: Plumbing
Date: Mon, 6 Apr 1998 10:16:11 -0700
X-Mailer: Microsoft Internet E-mail/MAPI - 8.0.0.4211
MIME-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Return-Path: tlcarter@email.msn.com

Joel:

I have MAM's pitot/static kit. They recommend running the lines down the
lift strut into the cockpit.

I have also put a nylon conduit down the wing root rib section to carry the
electrical wires to the lights. It is a 1/2" hole that exits the solid
root nose rib in the center of the aft stiffing swage. This was confirmed
with MAM.

You could perhaps run the pitot/staic lines thru the same location as well.
I bet a 1/2" hole is enough space for more than just wires.

I am going to run my pitot/static down the strut.

Tim



----------
From: Joel Jacobs[SMTP:jj@netexp.net]
Reply To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Sent: Monday, April 06, 1998 7:31 AM
To: Murphy Rebel
Subject: Plumbing

Hi folks,
I'm ready to install the pitot/static lines in my wing and I was wondering
where would be the best exit location. In the root nose rib or through the
lift strut. If through the nose rib, what type of fittings could be used?

Thanks
Joel








-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------

[Mike Davis]

Received: from 142.176.114.94 (ts1-62.hfx.dbis.ns.ca [142.176.114.94])
by zazu.dbis.ns.ca (8.8.8/8.8.5) with SMTP id UAA11421
for <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>; Mon, 6 Apr 1998 20:39:05 -0300
Message-ID: <35292F94.7DE9@dbis.ns.ca>
Date: Mon, 06 Apr 1998 19:41:32 +0000
From: David Ricker <ricker@dbis.ns.ca>
Reply-To: ricker@dbis.ns.ca
X-Mailer: Mozilla 3.02 (Macintosh; I; 68K)
MIME-Version: 1.0
To: " (Murphy Rebel)" <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Subject: Re: Plumbing
References: <01BD614C.277DB340.tlcarter@email.msn.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Tim, group

Do tell more about your in-wing conduit.

We have been contemplating how it should be implemented but to this
point haven't gotten past thinking about it. As you are doing, we
thought of some sort of non-conductive (plastic) tube that could permit
after the fact extraction and installation of wiring.

How have you mounted it? Where is the tube sourced? Does Murphy have
any suggestions for this? What have others done?

How about the top of fin/rudder light, what have people done here?

On the Pitot/static kit from Murphy, again, we have not heard of this,
what do you get & what do they want for it? Is there the heated tube
like you find on the typical Cessna? What is the typical builder
installing?

I have seen a couple of installations with tubes sticking out the end of
the wing strut but this method seems to lack some polish and I am
somewhat sceptical about the accuracy of this "align it by eye" setup.

Thanks in advance.....

Dave Ricker
Francine Desharnais
Nova Scotia
Canada
Elite #583


Tim Carter wrote:

Joel:

I have MAM's pitot/static kit. They recommend running the lines down the
lift strut into the cockpit.

I have also put a nylon conduit down the wing root rib section to carry

the

electrical wires to the lights. It is a 1/2" hole that exits the solid
root nose rib in the center of the aft stiffing swage. This was confirmed
with MAM.

You could perhaps run the pitot/staic lines thru the same location as

well.

I bet a 1/2" hole is enough space for more than just wires.

I am going to run my pitot/static down the strut.

Tim

----------
From: Joel Jacobs[SMTP:jj@netexp.net]
Reply To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Sent: Monday, April 06, 1998 7:31 AM
To: Murphy Rebel
Subject: Plumbing

Hi folks,
I'm ready to install the pitot/static lines in my wing and I was wondering
where would be the best exit location. In the root nose rib or through

the

lift strut. If through the nose rib, what type of fittings could be used?

Thanks
Joel

-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------

[Mike Davis]

Received: from RebelAir@aol.com
by imo11.mx.aol.com (IMOv13.ems) id GRKWa00366
for <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>; Mon, 6 Apr 1998 21:43:59 -0500 (EDT)
From: RebelAir <RebelAir@aol.com>
Message-ID: <dcf94ea8.352984e2@aol.com>
Date: Mon, 6 Apr 1998 21:43:59 EDT
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Mime-Version: 1.0
Subject: Re: Plumbing
Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit
X-Mailer: AOL 3.0 16-bit for Windows sub 38

Hi There

I am planning to run it down the strut. This should make the lines shorter
and out of the way. If you bring it through the root rib area, then where
do
you go from there? There is no convenient way to bring it into the dash
area
without bringing it down the 1x2 main frame, (ugly and not hideable). If
you
go down the strut, then a simple grommet fitting will be all that is
required.

Brian from Brampton



-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------

[Mike Davis]

Received: from RebelAir@aol.com
by imo15.mx.aol.com (IMOv13.ems) id GTTZa22228
for <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>; Mon, 6 Apr 1998 21:47:42 -0500 (EDT)
From: RebelAir <RebelAir@aol.com>
Message-ID: <48625391.352985c0@aol.com>
Date: Mon, 6 Apr 1998 21:47:42 EDT
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Mime-Version: 1.0
Subject: Re: Plumbing
Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit
X-Mailer: AOL 3.0 16-bit for Windows sub 38

Hi There

I agree about the 1/2" nylon tubing through the forward ribs. However,
there
will not be enough room for the pitot-static lines through that tube
assuming
you are using the MAM supplied material. And I do not recommend going to
smaller lines.

Brian from Brampton



-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------

[Mike Davis]

Received: from d.james (ba1p19.planeteer.com [204.50.144.52])
by toronto.planeteer.com (8.8.7/8.8.7) with ESMTP id WAA26195
for <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>; Mon, 6 Apr 1998 22:30:42 -0400 (EDT)
Message-ID: <35298E10.80F0F2D0@planeteer.com>
Date: Mon, 06 Apr 1998 22:23:12 -0400
From: David James <dmjames@planeteer.com>
X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.01 [en] (Win95; I)
MIME-Version: 1.0
To: " (Murphy Rebel)" <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Subject: Re: Plumbing
X-Priority: 3 (Normal)
References: <01BD614C.277DB340.tlcarter@email.msn.com>
<35292F94.7DE9@dbis.ns.ca>
X-Corel-MessageType: EMail
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

David Ricker wrote:

Tim, group

Do tell more about your in-wing conduit.
How have you mounted it? Where is the tube sourced? Does Murphy have

any suggestions for this? What have others done?

I went to Beaver Lumber and bought 3/4 inch polyethylene tubing. I cut
a bunch of pieces one half inch in length for spacers. I used a tie
wrap through the hole mid way up the nose rib on the spar side. I ran
the tie wrap through the hole in the rib through the spacer and around
the poly pipe running longitudinally along the spar. (I wish you could
add sketches to E-mail). This weighs about 8 oz per wing.

How about the top of fin/rudder light, what have people done here?

I used a metal fairing made for the opening in the fuse for the control
rods and a used Cessna light.

On the Pitot/static kit from Murphy, again, we have not heard of this,

what do you get & what do they want for it? Is there the heated tube
like you find on the typical Cessna? What is the typical builder
installing?

I bought a used heated peto from an aircraft bone yard and installed it
just outboard of the strut connection and will run the wires for the
heated peto and the tubing for the airspeed indicator inside the wing
strut.

Hope this helps.

David James, Rebel 228
BMW K100 powered.






-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------

[Mike Davis]

Date: Tue, 07 Apr 1998 12:42:51 -0400
From: Dowhan Michael <michael.dowhan@pwc.ca>
Subject: Re: Plumbing
Sender: Michael.Dowhan@pwc.ca
To: Murphy Rebel <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Organization: Advanced Design Toronto
MIME-version: 1.0
X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.04 [en] (X11; I; HP-UX B.10.20 9000/715)
Content-type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit
References: <01BD614C.277DB340.tlcarter@email.msn.com>
<35292F94.7DE9@dbis.ns.ca>
Message-Id: <16460685900473@dcsol.com>

David Ricker wrote:

Tim, group

Do tell more about your in-wing conduit.

We have been contemplating how it should be implemented but to this
point haven't gotten past thinking about it. As you are doing, we
thought of some sort of non-conductive (plastic) tube that could permit
after the fact extraction and installation of wiring.

How have you mounted it? Where is the tube sourced? Does Murphy have
any suggestions for this? What have others done?

How about the top of fin/rudder light, what have people done here?

On the Pitot/static kit from Murphy, again, we have not heard of this,
what do you get & what do they want for it? Is there the heated tube
like you find on the typical Cessna? What is the typical builder
installing?

I have seen a couple of installations with tubes sticking out the end of
the wing strut but this method seems to lack some polish and I am
somewhat sceptical about the accuracy of this "align it by eye" setup.

Thanks in advance.....

Dave Ricker
Francine Desharnais
Nova Scotia
Canada
Elite #583

Hi All,
I have used conduit for my wiring for the wing lights on my Rebel. I got
this
idea from a RV4 builder who says its one of the neatest methods since can
put
wiring in last and its always possible to replace if a problem. I used 3/8
polyethylene tubing available from almost any store dealing in
hydraulic/pneumatic equipment, with home made brackets attached to each l/e
rib
in the area of the tooling hole near to the main spar. I have photos if
anyone
wants to see the installation. The method I chose means you do not have to
drill any extra holes except on for the rivet to secure the brackets. The
tooling hole is used for the other rivet.

Mike Dowhan
Rebel 392R




-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------

[Mike Davis]

Received: from tim.intrixsg - 153.35.236.25 by email.msn.com with Microsoft
SMTPSVC;
Tue, 7 Apr 1998 10:42:10 -0700
Received: by localhost with Microsoft MAPI; Tue, 7 Apr 1998 10:40:46 -0700
Message-ID: <01BD6211.9F47F0A0.tlcarter@email.msn.com>
From: Tim Carter <tlcarter@email.msn.com>
Reply-To: "tlcarter@msn.com" <tlcarter@msn.com>
To: "'murphy-rebel@dcsol.com'" <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Subject: RE: Plumbing
Date: Tue, 7 Apr 1998 10:38:21 -0700
X-Mailer: Microsoft Internet E-mail/MAPI - 8.0.0.4211
MIME-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Return-Path: tlcarter@email.msn.com

Dave, Francine:

Simple installation:

In each root rib (on the Rebel) there is an aft 3/16" tooling hole next to
the main spar. I used 1/2" nylon water line, about 3/32" wall thickness
(same as you'd use for a refrigerator ice hook up or similar), ran it thru
the wing next to this tooling hole.

I cut a small rubber tube, like car vacuum hose, into 2" pieces and split
them on one side. I used some Proseal to attach them to the rib web just
adjacent the tooling hole. This is like a small cushion for the nylon line
to lie against.

I then tie-wrapped the nylon water line to the rib against the cushion in
X-criss-cross fashion thru the tooling hole, all the way down the wing.

On the solid root rib I drilled a 1/2" hole in the dead center of the aft
stiffening swage, and ran the tube thru it. Sealed it up with a bit of
Proseal.

I have not installed a tail-light, and don't plan to. I am going to use
the Wheelen or Aero-Flash system that has the white light as part of the
wingtip assembly.

If you can't find the nylon tube where you are I'll be happy to get some
for you and send it to you. It's pretty common at the big home depot
stores around here.

Tim

----------
From: David Ricker[SMTP:ricker@dbis.ns.ca]
Reply To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Sent: Monday, April 06, 1998 12:41 PM
To: (Murphy Rebel)
Subject: Re: Plumbing

Tim, group

Do tell more about your in-wing conduit.

We have been contemplating how it should be implemented but to this
point haven't gotten past thinking about it. As you are doing, we
thought of some sort of non-conductive (plastic) tube that could permit
after the fact extraction and installation of wiring.

How have you mounted it? Where is the tube sourced? Does Murphy have
any suggestions for this? What have others done?

How about the top of fin/rudder light, what have people done here?

On the Pitot/static kit from Murphy, again, we have not heard of this,
what do you get & what do they want for it? Is there the heated tube
like you find on the typical Cessna? What is the typical builder
installing?

I have seen a couple of installations with tubes sticking out the end of
the wing strut but this method seems to lack some polish and I am
somewhat sceptical about the accuracy of this "align it by eye" setup.

Thanks in advance.....

Dave Ricker
Francine Desharnais
Nova Scotia
Canada
Elite #583


Tim Carter wrote:

Joel:

I have MAM's pitot/static kit. They recommend running the lines down the
lift strut into the cockpit.

I have also put a nylon conduit down the wing root rib section to carry

the

electrical wires to the lights. It is a 1/2" hole that exits the solid
root nose rib in the center of the aft stiffing swage. This was

confirmed

with MAM.

You could perhaps run the pitot/staic lines thru the same location as

well.

I bet a 1/2" hole is enough space for more than just wires.

I am going to run my pitot/static down the strut.

Tim

----------
From: Joel Jacobs[SMTP:jj@netexp.net]
Reply To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Sent: Monday, April 06, 1998 7:31 AM
To: Murphy Rebel
Subject: Plumbing

Hi folks,
I'm ready to install the pitot/static lines in my wing and I was

wondering

where would be the best exit location. In the root nose rib or through

the

lift strut. If through the nose rib, what type of fittings could be

used?

Thanks
Joel

-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------

[Mike Davis]

Received: from ts57-09.tor.istar.ca [204.191.147.232]
by mail1.toronto.istar.net with smtp (Exim 1.80 #5)
id 0yMdfV-000027-00; Tue, 7 Apr 1998 15:04:27 -0400
X-Sender: crs1188@inforamp.net
X-Mailer: Windows Eudora Light Version 1.5.2
Mime-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com> (Murphy Rebel)
From: Bob Patterson <bob.patterson@canrem.com>
Subject: Re: Plumbing
Message-Id: <E0yMdfV-000027-00@mail1.toronto.istar.net>
Date: Tue, 7 Apr 1998 15:04:27 -0400

FWIW, I would run the plumbing down the strut. It makes it easy to
disconnect, when you remove the wings. This route also brings the tubing
out into the cockpit in a convenient spot. If you come in at the wing
root, there is no easy way to get down to the back of the panel.
This route might also be a good way to go for nav. light wiring.

.....bobp


-------------------------------------orig.-------------------------------
At 10:31 AM 4/6/98 -0400, you wrote:

Hi folks,
I'm ready to install the pitot/static lines in my wing and I was wondering
where would be the best exit location. In the root nose rib or through the
lift strut. If through the nose rib, what type of fittings could be used?

Thanks
Joel

-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------

[Mike Davis]

Received: from 486dx2-80 (unverified [205.182.69.235]) by merlin.netexp.net
(Rockliffe SMTPRA 2.1.4) with SMTP id <B0000856303@merlin.netexp.net> for
<murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>;
Wed, 08 Apr 1998 12:24:44 -0400
Message-ID: <B0000856303@merlin.netexp.net>
From: "Joel Jacobs" <jj@netexp.net>
To: "Murphy Rebel" <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Subject: Re: Plumbing
Date: Wed, 8 Apr 1998 12:20:40 -0400
X-Priority: 3
X-MSMail-Priority: Normal
X-Mailer: Microsoft Outlook Express 4.71.1712.3
X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V4.72.2106.4


-----Original Message-----
From: Bob Patterson <bob.patterson@canrem.com>
To: Murphy Rebel <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Date: Tuesday, April 07, 1998 2:59 PM
Subject: Re: Plumbing

FWIW, I would run the plumbing down the strut. It makes it easy to
disconnect, when you remove the wings. This route also brings the tubing
out into the cockpit in a convenient spot. If you come in at the wing
root, there is no easy way to get down to the back of the panel.
This route might also be a good way to go for nav. light wiring.

.....bobp

Hmm... I've already installed all the wing wiring and they both exit via
cannon plugs in the nose rib. I was kinda planning to exit the plumbing
there as well - through a bulkhead fitting of some sort so it could be
dis-connected. I had not realized there was not an easy way to get to the
panel from there, after all I haven't even started the fuselage yet. I did
see a Rebel at Oshkosh though that had the wiring exit at the nose rib.
Looks like I'm going to have to find a way.

Joel







-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------