Aileron Torque Tube & Proseal

[David Ricker]

Hi Guys

Well, finally made it through the hundreds of E-mails & chores that
collected while we were down under visting Rick & Wendy H. and Greg G.,
so here we are with a couple of questions on the wing:

1) On the inboard end of the (right) wing torque tube, the manual says
pull it toward the root and slip the thin washer (M2W) & the 1/2" wide
spacer (CC-54) on and then drill through the 1" sleeve CC-100) into the
plug that goes into the torque tube ( EL-31). The manual shows very
little end to end clearance for the torque tube to slide toward the tip
in the bearings but we have about 1/4", is this normal? What should the
clearance be?

What should the torque tube length be (Manual says cut the 12' long tube
in two which for us gave 6' "dead nuts on")?

If I put a straight edge across the end of the torque tube and measure
(along the axis of the tube) the distance to the end of the rear spar I
get 3/4" (without the plug in place), does this sound right?

I am concerned about this because I do not want to get the wing closed
up and find that the torque tube needs to be cut back because it will
interfere with the what I believe is the fuselage torque tube which
actuates it. (near as I can figure out from the manual right now
anyway...).

Any thoughts? Any good pictures in the archives at Mikes or Wrays or on
a web site?

2) OK, on to the Proseal question, the (old expired) Proseal MAM sent
with the kit says it is the 1/2 hour setup type, we can buy 2 hour and 4
hour versions also, how long do you really need to do any operation of
the sealing process? I was leaning toward the 4 hour so we would have
plenty of time to mess with things without having it set up part way
through, what do you think?

3) I have discovered that it is possible to buy empty caulking gun tubes
(like your bathtub silicone comes in), do you think this would be a good
idea for dispensing to get an even application with less mess? I am
tempted because after you do a batch you can throw the works away and
start with a fresh tube. You can mix up just what you need and put it
into the tube. Looks like thet run about $CDN3.00 each.

See
http://www.crlaurence.com/ProductPages/ ... 85&Origin=
and http://www.cammda.com/cartridges.cfm (where you have to register
but you can get away with a "fake" e-mail to avoid getting their SPAM.

Each of these has dealers in Canada and the US so it shouldn't be hard
to get the tubes, Cammda even sells them over the web.

Thanks

Dave

--
David A. Ricker
Fall River, Nova Scotia
Canada
Elite583.cjb.net




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[Al & Deb Paxhia]

I used small batch quantities. My work pace was a 100g batch and that would
not fit the caulking tube very well. Big batches will only work if you have
many hands to rivet every thing together. Once mixed, "they" say you can
freeze any leftover but I never have done that. My proseal equipment was
latex gloves, tongue depressors, acid brushes, acetone, and old clothes. I
would cut the tongue depressors off at a taper on each end making a
scraper/applicator.
Good luck,
Al
----- Original Message -----
From: "David Ricker" <ricker@dbis.ns.ca>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Thursday, November 21, 2002 7:33 PM
Subject: Aileron Torque Tube & Proseal

Hi Guys

Well, finally made it through the hundreds of E-mails & chores that
collected while we were down under visting Rick & Wendy H. and Greg G.,
so here we are with a couple of questions on the wing:

1) On the inboard end of the (right) wing torque tube, the manual says
pull it toward the root and slip the thin washer (M2W) & the 1/2" wide
spacer (CC-54) on and then drill through the 1" sleeve CC-100) into the
plug that goes into the torque tube ( EL-31). The manual shows very
little end to end clearance for the torque tube to slide toward the tip
in the bearings but we have about 1/4", is this normal? What should the
clearance be?

What should the torque tube length be (Manual says cut the 12' long tube
in two which for us gave 6' "dead nuts on")?

If I put a straight edge across the end of the torque tube and measure
(along the axis of the tube) the distance to the end of the rear spar I
get 3/4" (without the plug in place), does this sound right?

I am concerned about this because I do not want to get the wing closed
up and find that the torque tube needs to be cut back because it will
interfere with the what I believe is the fuselage torque tube which
actuates it. (near as I can figure out from the manual right now
anyway...).

Any thoughts? Any good pictures in the archives at Mikes or Wrays or on
a web site?

2) OK, on to the Proseal question, the (old expired) Proseal MAM sent
with the kit says it is the 1/2 hour setup type, we can buy 2 hour and 4
hour versions also, how long do you really need to do any operation of
the sealing process? I was leaning toward the 4 hour so we would have
plenty of time to mess with things without having it set up part way
through, what do you think?

3) I have discovered that it is possible to buy empty caulking gun tubes
(like your bathtub silicone comes in), do you think this would be a good
idea for dispensing to get an even application with less mess? I am
tempted because after you do a batch you can throw the works away and
start with a fresh tube. You can mix up just what you need and put it
into the tube. Looks like thet run about $CDN3.00 each.

See

http://www.crlaurence.com/ProductPages/ ... ProductID=
5785&Origin=

and http://www.cammda.com/cartridges.cfm (where you have to register
but you can get away with a "fake" e-mail to avoid getting their SPAM.

Each of these has dealers in Canada and the US so it shouldn't be hard
to get the tubes, Cammda even sells them over the web.

Thanks

Dave

--
David A. Ricker
Fall River, Nova Scotia
Canada
Elite583.cjb.net

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[rognal]

David,

My wings are assembled/cradled, but not yet installed to the fuselage. I took a
look and measured approx 1 1/8 inch from the root rib to the end of the tube
(not the end of the plug). A measurement to the end of the rear spar as (I
think) you described, appeared to be approx 3/4" or so. My wings are in the
corner of my work area with the root area against the wall so it was difficult
to get in and get an exact measurement for you.

Something that Bryan at MAM suggested to me when I was building my wings was
that he had riveted the 1/2 inch spacer to the torque tube with (if I remember
right) six or eight 1/8th inch rivets. This fixes the spacer in place against
the bearing and eliminates any side play you may otherwise have in the tube. To
do this I put the spacer in place on the tube, against the bearing (make sure
the washer is in place), I drilled one #40 hole through the spacer/tube to
ensure the position, then removed the tube to complete the rest of the
drilling/deburring. To do the final riveting of the spacer to the tube, I had
to drill out the rivets in the torque tube outboard bearing base, slide the
torque tube toward the root rib to get the inboard end of the tube clear of the
wing structure. Rivet the spacer, the sleeve, the plug, and the control horn,
etc. Then slide the completed torque tube assembly back into place in the wing
and re-rivet the outboard bearing base back in position. Needless to say, this
was one of the last things I did before closing up the wing. When I did the
second wing I did not rivet the outboard bearing base in place until this 1/2"
spacer had been marked, drilled, and riveted in place.

None of this was in (my)manual and I don't know how important it might be to
rivet the spacer in place unless you have side play in the torque tube. On my
wings the 1" sleeve butts right up to the 1/2" spacer so there would not have
been any side play anyway.

Hope this helps.

Roger Hoffman #687R
Eugene, OR USA!





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[David Ricker]

Thanks Roger

In our case we had about 1/4" play in the torque tube and by your comments and
after consultation with MAM, I believe we will be OK since any variation in the
distance between the ends of the torque tubes once both wings are in place will be
taken up in fabrication of the intconnecting parts according to Brian G @ MAM.

We will do as you did and fix the 1/2" spacer to the torque tube to control the end
play and proceed with the control horn mounting as per the instructions. Our
outboard end appears to land in the right spot since the control horn is in the
right place relative to the adjacent rib.

Cheers,

Dave R.



rognal@dcsol.com wrote:

David,

My wings are assembled/cradled, but not yet installed to the fuselage. I took a
look and measured approx 1 1/8 inch from the root rib to the end of the tube
(not the end of the plug). A measurement to the end of the rear spar as (I
think) you described, appeared to be approx 3/4" or so. My wings are in the
corner of my work area with the root area against the wall so it was difficult
to get in and get an exact measurement for you.

Something that Bryan at MAM suggested to me when I was building my wings was
that he had riveted the 1/2 inch spacer to the torque tube with (if I remember
right) six or eight 1/8th inch rivets. This fixes the spacer in place against
the bearing and eliminates any side play you may otherwise have in the tube. To
do this I put the spacer in place on the tube, against the bearing (make sure
the washer is in place), I drilled one #40 hole through the spacer/tube to
ensure the position, then removed the tube to complete the rest of the
drilling/deburring. To do the final riveting of the spacer to the tube, I had
to drill out the rivets in the torque tube outboard bearing base, slide the
torque tube toward the root rib to get the inboard end of the tube clear of the
wing structure. Rivet the spacer, the sleeve, the plug, and the control horn,
etc. Then slide the completed torque tube assembly back into place in the wing
and re-rivet the outboard bearing base back in position. Needless to say, this
was one of the last things I did before closing up the wing. When I did the
second wing I did not rivet the outboard bearing base in place until this 1/2"
spacer had been marked, drilled, and riveted in place.

None of this was in (my)manual and I don't know how important it might be to
rivet the spacer in place unless you have side play in the torque tube. On my
wings the 1" sleeve butts right up to the 1/2" spacer so there would not have
been any side play anyway.

Hope this helps.

Roger Hoffman #687R
Eugene, OR USA!



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