The Murphy Builders Site

Nice article Jerry thanks for sharing.

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Great topic. Now brace yourselves for topic creep. Seems there is some plastic expertise on this thread.... so maybe someone could answer a question I've wondered about for a long time. Why has no one made and sold a plastic extrusion, airfoil shaped, that could slip over the bracing wires on float...

Hi Wayne Merry Christmas. I'm running the recommended plugs NGK BR8ES plugs. They come out a nice tan colour so I don't feel any need to try different heat ranges.

Interesting discussion. I think that with those giant tires 92kts isn't that bad. I suspect they are at least as draggy as a set of floats.

I've been running an E mag and a P mag since I swapped my engine for an 0-320 in 2006. So I'm an early adopter and I have had 2 failures that showed up on the ground during my run up. I suspect that they failed while I was flying but the other one works so well there's no roughness or drop in rpm. E...

My registration letters are decals. They went on easy and haven't budged for 14 years. I did have to press down the decal around each rivet with a tongue depressor. A job that's easiest on a hot sunny day.

Thanks Wayne. That's the thingamabob I was looking for and I could rework these to do what I want. My original plan was to have the pivot pin fixed on the ski and rotate inside the axle but I can see how doing it the other way around could work better. Hopefully I can get it all sorted out before th...

Thanks for the suggestions but no none of the above. What I need is something that comes in from both ends but doesn't meet in the middle so that the bolt the ski pivots on can pass through the hole I drilled in the end of the axle.

I've seen a cotter pin substitute that is a D shaped spring with the center part of the flat side cut out. I need a couple of them to secure my axle nuts when skis are installed but I have no idea what they are called and google hasn't saved me. Any suggestions?

The only film on the aluminum would have been fingerprints. It had the plastic on it right up until I used it. I think the sikaflex will do a very good job of corrosion prevention by excluding moisture and oxygen.

Late last spring I had to drill off a total of 4 corner wraps so I could replace my fuel lines. I was very pleased to find that the aluminum inside was as clean and shiny as the day it went together about 16 years ago. What disappointed me was that even though I thought I was being very careful abou...

My rebel kit came with clear plastic fuel line for the sight gauges and nylon barbed fittings. The plastic went discoloured, hard and brittle within weeks of putting fuel in the tanks so I replaced it with tygon and all the fittings with AN parts and aluminum tubing salvaged from a wrecked cherokee ...

You could also check out a commercial system like hobbyair. Probably not a whole lot more expensive than gathering all the parts you'll need.
http://www.aircraftspruce.ca/catalog/to ... bbyair.php

I'm not familiar with that system. I used to follow a bearhawk builders list and they mostly seem to prefer stewart system paints. It's water based and reportedly works well on fabric and metal. I plan to use it on a cedar canoe that I need to cover some day.

Thanks Tim Veedudder was a great writer. He is missed.